9N ignition woes

It's a 6 volt positive ground system.

Thank you for your time. Opinions and suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Anthony

Yes if you cleaned the points with sandpaper and did not clean the grit out and polish them after sanding them or it wont fire cotectly.You really need to replace the points.If You really have to sand them to get by ,use some (600) grit only, wet or dry paper ,then wipe,blow all grit out then polish them with a dollar bill,matchbook cover.

I'm going to assume you're not a newbie or tvy syn wouldn't have brought the tractor to you in the first place, so I'll leave out my usual screed about the dashboard ammeter, assuming you know how to use one; bearing that in mind, hear are the suggestions:

(1) A test light can spot some STATIC ignition switch malfunctions, but not all DYNAMIC ones. Try troubleshooting the switch by replacing it. If you don't want to spend the money, you can try putting a jumper across it; but this will not find dialectric breakdown of the switch insulation.

(2) If replacing the switch doesn't do anything, all what Bruce VA said.

(3) If none of what Bruce VA said helps, troubleshoot the coil by replacing it. Again, the test light will only help you check for continuity; it cannot find dialectric breakdown of the insulation between the windings, a common failure mode for coils after the engine has had a while to heat up.

Hope all this helps. If by chance you DON'T know how to use the dashboard ammeter to troubleshoot your problems, well, I admit it's a "hobby horse" of mine, but I am happy to explain it.

Thanks,
Anthony

I'm going to assume you're not a newbie or tvy syn wouldn't have brought the tractor to you in the first place, so I'll leave out my usual screed about the dashboard ammeter, assuming you know how to use one; bearing that in mind, hear are the suggestions:

(1) A test light can spot some STATIC ignition switch malfunctions, but not all DYNAMIC ones. Try troubleshooting the switch by replacing it. If you don't want to spend the money, you can try putting a jumper across it; but this will not find dialectric breakdown of the switch insulation.

(2) If replacing the switch doesn't do anything, all what Bruce VA said.

(3) If none of what Bruce VA said helps, troubleshoot the coil by replacing it. Again, the test light will only help you check for continuity; it cannot find dialectric breakdown of the insulation between the windings, a common failure mode for coils after the engine has had a while to heat up.

Hope all this helps. If by chance you DON'T know how to use the dashboard ammeter to troubleshoot your problems, well, I admit it's a "hobby horse" of mine, but I am happy to explain it.