1948 8N Oil Pressure and Governor Help

Do check the gov. one thing though.. goose the throttle fast.. if it stumbles any.. check your carb main jet to make sure it is not way lean. or way rich ( sooty smoke )

Soundguy

If the governor is working at all you should feel a "noticeable" tug on that rod. If you do not feel any tug, remove both the short and the long rod from the governor, as well as the oil line that lubes the governor.

Remove the 2 bolts and the governor will pop right off. Check the 4 steel balls in the governor for flat spots, as well as the upper and lower race for wear. If they need to be replaced, it is an inexpensive fix. (your gov. probably is leaking oil anyway and you can address that at the same time).

If the governor pans out OK, I would then adjust the long throttle rod that connects from the governor to your throttle assembly. On both the 8N's that I have worked on, the adjustment was the problem with getting the engine to idle right, and maintain constant RPM's when using the tractor.

Common mis--diagnosis points to your carb---usually not the problem fixer----post back with results of what you find.

Tim

Colin, MN

i use castrol sae 30 in the summer. if you look at 30 wt oil when you put it on your finger during the hot summer...it sures looks thin to me. just think what your poor car engine goes thru with 10w30 in the summer or even 5w30.

even though current oil far exceeds oil from 50 years ago..there is still a difference. many in fact. sheer is a major problem with oil. when oil heats and sheers...then you have wear. better hope you have zinc in your oil at that time(castrol does).

my ratings are kendall race oil then castrol oil as best from all the info i studied. sythetic may leak around vintage gaskets. front rope seals on N engines would probably leak sythetic but i haven't tried it.

the worst thing for an engine is to start it over and over and over. once running...use it.

high shear viscosity is cP 3.1 not cP 3.5

Viscosity at 100`C is 10.4 ...i don't know where you got 150`C from

one thing they don't list is zinc and ash content.

• The high shear viscosity test is measured at 150C (and 3600 RPM) per the SAE requirements.
• Kinematic viscosity test is measured at 100C (and much lower RPM) also per the SAE spec.

IIRC the Pennzoil HD product sheet lists zinc at .11 as opposed to the Castrol at .09. I don't recall if the ash was listed or not - it usually is along with a lot of other useful info.

But you seem to have missed my basic point which is that the SAE grade designation only tells a piece of the story. And that a multi-grade will have, for all intents and purposes, the same viscosity at normal engine temps as the corresponding single grade. The grade specifies a range (two ranges actually) - not an exact number. Without looking each specific product up you can't even reliably predict which will be higher, the monograde or the multigrade, the traditional or the synthetic, etc.

TOH

they actually insisted that the oils drilled from pennsylvani have a high ash content simply because of the soil that it comes from vs. the texas oil fields.

same guy also told me that sythetic oil leaked out his gaskets on his rebuilt chev 350 motor. he put that in after breakin with regular oil.

i would use sythetic in my 8n's just rebuilt motor but i don't know if those rebuild kits have proper gaskets for it or not. the front seal is a rope seal i guess.

i think that one could get away with the cost of sythetic oil year round in wisconsin. just change it every spring. as long as the tractor is worked enough to evaporate the condensing water in the winter time. i just spent $1750 on the motor rebuild and want only the best for that precious engine.

here is a link to a site that kinda explains some stuff. i base my decision on a few things like the zinc, ash, viscosity...etc.

let me know what you think of it, ok?

here is the link:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/misc/all_oilfaq.html

However it has several factual errors in the very brief discussion of the SAE viscosity grading scheme. That leads me to believe the writer is repeating information he picked up anecdotally rather than through any hard research. I doubt he/she has any in depth understanding of the current system or how and why it evolved.

If you read my "treatise" you'll find mention of the differences between Gulf crude and PA crude. Those differences were recognized by the automotive engineering community as early as the 50's. My discussion of the differences centered around the fact that PA crude yielded oils with higher viscosity indexes - meaning a Pennzoil SAE 30 didn't thicken up as much as an SAE 30 oil refined from a Gulf crude when it got cold. That was a major performance advantage in cold winter climates. It motivated a chnage in the SAE grading specifications and it was very much a part of the drive to develop multigrades.

I don't care what oil anyone uses in their motors except me. It's your tractor/truck/hotrod etc. Do what you want. But I think if you want to make the best decision possible you need to get as much factual engineering info as possible to aid you in making that decision. And there's a lot of FUD floating around on the Internet and in the various gearhead forums. We all need to be very careful what "facts" we parade around. I for one have been enmbarrassed to find that some of my facts weren't. I hate it when that happens.

I think we are in pretty much in agreement on the basic issues. Nice chatting with you - now let's leave these folks to a little peace and quiet ;-)

TOH

thanks

Mobil 1 10W-30 Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 40º C 62 cSt @ 100º C 10.0 Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 147 Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0 HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC ASTM D 4683 3.14 Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -45 Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 224 Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.86