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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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2n wont start

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stryped

07-04-2007 12:26:25




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I am needing to mow. Yesterday mowed about an hour tractor died and would not start back. Charged battery after cranking a long time and came back about 3 hours latter. Fired right up. Mowed 15 minutes and turned it off. This orning, nothing will start it.

I have fuel coming out of the line into the carb. Took air cleaner hose off and cranked with choke on and I could tell gas was in the air cleaner section of the carb. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I noticed no spark at the plugs for any plug. In the past few months I have replaced the spark plugs. I also replaced the ignition key ue to a lost key. It has a front mount distributor. It has a black box on top of the distributor which I assume is the coil.

How do I tell if the coil is bad or the points are bad. I have a new points and condensor but am a little afraid of taking the distributor out and not being able to get the points right or the timing right. (The manual I have is a little confusing on how to set the timeing for this).

The electrical wire on top of the coil shows 2.6 volts witht he key on. Is this right? Should I bypass and put 12 volts directly from my battery to the top of the coild to see if this makes a difference?

I really appreciate any help! I need to mow!

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Bruce (VA)

07-04-2007 14:09:33




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to stryped, 07-04-2007 12:26:25  
Ahhhhh yes, a 12v conversion with unknown resistors in the circuit. With only 2.6v going to the top of the front mount coil, it will not produce any spark at the plugs. You need about 3.8v to the top of the coil with a 6v system, and you have a 12v system, right? Yea, you can put 12v into the top of the coil & it will probably start, but that does not fix the problem. And, it will probably burn up the coil in a short while. First off, do not worry about timing on a front mount. It does not really matter. Secondly, do not worry about pulling the distributor off to check the points; Henry made it that way & horse farmers did it w/o a problem. But, chances are it's not your points that is causing it not to run. It's 2.6v to the distributor. Now, if it were a 6v system, I'd tell you to replace the ballast resistor. But, given the many ways to convert a N to 12v, who knows what the value of the resistors, if any, are in the circuit. So, first, get the ammeter working. (Got an I&T FO4 manual? It has a diagram) Next, you will need to jump the ignition switch to see if that is the problem (a bad switch, or miswired switch, can act like a resistor). And finally, you will need to figure out what resistors are in the circuit (if any) and rewire it, if need be.

The article on 12v conversions by fellow board member Chris Britton will help you out:

http://www.n-news.com/specialads1.html

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old

07-04-2007 12:55:19




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to stryped, 07-04-2007 12:26:25  
First thing I would do is check for spark and how good or bad it is. If no spark try jumpering around the ignition switch and check again. If that works you found the problem if not go on the checking the points which most like it isn't. I would say its most likely the coil if the jumper doesn't work on the switch

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stryped

07-04-2007 13:53:18




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to old, 07-04-2007 12:55:19  
how do I jump the ignition switch?



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old

07-04-2007 14:02:41




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to stryped, 07-04-2007 13:53:18  
2 ways to do that. One is just take a wire and jump across the 2 terminals on it or you can take one wire loose and hook it to the other wire.



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stryped

07-05-2007 06:01:11




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to old, 07-04-2007 14:02:41  
Which two wires?



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old

07-05-2007 08:25:40




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to stryped, 07-05-2007 06:01:11  
Well if it has a factory type switch the switch only has 2 wires. Now if it has an after market switch then you have to figure out which wire is the ignition wire and which is the battery wire and hook those 2 togeather



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Dunk

07-04-2007 12:40:21




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to stryped, 07-04-2007 12:26:25  
JEF, "I also replaced the ignition key ue to a lost key"


Could be the coil, could be the coil pigtail not being streched enough, or the other connection on the bottom of the coil not making good connection.

Could be corroded wiring terminal connections.



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JEF LEF

07-04-2007 12:31:12




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 Re: 2n wont start in reply to stryped, 07-04-2007 12:26:25  
Bypass yer weaksister key switch with a jumper wire and see if it stays running after 10-15 minutes.



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A. Bohemian

07-04-2007 13:52:04




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 This Looks Like a Job For Dashboard Ammeterman! in reply to JEF LEF, 07-04-2007 12:31:12  
Quote: ''How do I tell if the coil is bad or the points are bad?''

The only way I know of to tell if a coil is bad is to replace it. Do try stretching the pigtail a bit and see if that helps; but other than that, it's hard to find most coil problems with a test light or voltmeter.

You can do voltage and resistance readings on the coil, but except for continuity (showing a complete open or a dead short), these won't tell you much. This is because they are static readings (ignition system not operating); and the coil usually fails due to breakdown of the insulation between windings, which occurs only when there is high voltage across the secondary of the coil, which occurs only when the ignition system is operating (dynamic).

Ah, but the points. The points...

Look at your dashboard ammeter with the ignition on but without cranking the motor. You should show an approximate three-amp discharge.

No discharge? The points are not closing or not making good contact, or there is an open elsewhere in the system.

Normal discharge? Crank the engine. You should see the ammeter fluctuate as the points open and close. No fluctuation? The points are likely shorted, not opening for some reason, or there is a short elsewhere in the system.

Ammeter behaving normally? Now is the time to consider trying another coil.

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stryped

07-04-2007 13:56:14




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 Re: This Looks Like a Job For Dashboard Ammeterman! in reply to A. Bohemian, 07-04-2007 13:52:04  
When I replaced the key switch about 7 months ago I must have done somethign wrong. The ammeter has not worked since.



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A. Bohemian

07-04-2007 14:12:16




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 I'd Fix it. in reply to stryped, 07-04-2007 13:56:14  
It is just barely remotely possible that the wiring mistake you made when you wired in the new switch has something to do with the reason your tractor won't start. Figure out what you did wrong and wire it up right.

And anyway, trying to maintain a Kettering ignition without an ammeter is like making bricks without straw (Exodus 5:8-23).



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stryped

07-05-2007 05:45:49




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 Re: I'd Fix it. in reply to A. Bohemian, 07-04-2007 14:12:16  
It has run many months without problems since the new switch.

Where can I find a new wiring diagram to make sure everythign is wired correctly?



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