How many volts to the coil terminal?

How many volts are supposed to go to the oil? With the key on I measured 2.6. This does not seem like enough is it? I have a 12 volt system. Can I hook a wire directly from the batery to the coil terminal?

The first thing you need to know is what kind of coil you have. With a 12 volt system you can have either a 12 volt coil or a 6 volt coil. With a 12 volt coil, you need about 8-10 volts at the top of the coil with the point closed. With a 6 volt coil you need about 3-3.5 volt with the point closed. You say your coil wire goes back to a resistor on the back of the dash. Is there any other resistors in this line? If not, my guess is that you have a 12 volt coil and 2.8 volts is WAY TOO low. Look for bad/dirty connections or a bad ignition switch.

Post back with more info.

Good luck,
Danny

I just read your post below! Now my guess is that you have a 6 volt coil and no other resistors in line other than the ballast resistor on back of the dash. If that is the case you have burned up the coil. You can replace the coil with a 12 volt coil and just the ballast resistor or you can replace with a 6 volt coil and another resistor in line. A resistor around 2.5 ohms should get the voltage to about 3.5 volts with the point closed.

Danny

Don't do it!

The voltage you are getting to the coil with the points closed is just about right. I would think three volts would be better but not at the expense of frying something.

I would consider replacing the plugs or cleaning then with a plug cleaner/sand blaster if you are getting any spart at all at the wires.

Zane

Try pulling the tractor off to start it or try starting fluid to see if it is in fact ignition problem or fuel problem. If it will start on starting fluid it is not ignition problem but fuel problem.

Zane

• Hobby farm

I am betting on it being your ignition switch that is bad, like one of the replies to your earlier post suggested.

Take a voltage reading on both sides of the switch and see if its the same. If the reading after the switch is lower you have found the problem.

These switches go bad and typically they will have enough continuity to start the engine when cold but after you run the tractor for a few minutes the switch heats up and loses its continuity, causing voltage to drop to the ignition system and voila your engine won't run until the switch cools down again.

Figure out what you did wrong at that time and fix it. Otherwise, there's no way to tell if the voltage readings you are seeing are meaningful (although, as old says, 2.6 volts on the high end of the coil with the points closed sounds about right).

I agree, fixing the ammeter provides current that makes the voltage reading's meaningful. Otherwise you need to measure the OHMS of each component, or VD of a know device like OEM Ballast

I think the OEM Ballast MUST also be in the circuit "or" he would likely have more than ~ 3.0 volt with a 6 volt coil. (The OEM Ballast is not White) OEM ballast + 2.0 ohms works

I do not see a reading with points OPEN, that may mean he has a short in the Distributor

JMHO

How do I tell if the points are "open or closed" as you say?