Early 8N Brake Job

I replaced the plugs, cleaned the sediment bowl and put in fresh fuel adjusted the carb and it runs fine. Hydraulics seem good too.

The big problem is with the brakes (or lack thereof). When I got the tractor home hydraulic fluid was dripping out of the axles and in checking the fluid level I found it was really high. I sucked about 2 gallons out which brought the level down to the full mark on the dip stick.

I have ordered brake parts for a complete rebuild on both wheels (less drums) and I'm wondering if there is any kind of ideosyncracy that I should be aware of.I have the manual. I am aware that the splines need to be sealed with something like silicone to be sure that fluid doesn't get to the brakes again.

I have absolutely no pedal on the right brake and almost nothing on the left. In looking at the left backing plate it appears as though at one time the brake shaft was deflected enough to put a pretty serious semicircular dent in the plate which I think I can probably straighten by hammering it flat. That brake does grab occasionally but has shoe contact to allow it to function to small degree.

The biggest problem I can forsee is handling the wheels and tires and since I'll be working outside I have a tree I can lean them against.

Anyone have any advice or suggestions to offer before I dive into this phase?

By the way, thanks to all of you who provided input for my exhaust leak.

Art in Cortez, Co.

The early 8Ns did not have an inner seal in the trumpet housing like the later models have and getting the only outer seal right is imperative to prevent leakage on the brakes.

Another important thing to get right is the bearing preload. If you can come up with a dial indicator you should try to determine how much in and out motion one or the other axle has before you take it apart. You will need the wheels off before you attempt to measure the end movement.
Bearing preload is accomplised by either adding or removing shims between the axle hub and the axle trumpet housing. Unless you replace the bearings you are not going to have to add shims for sure but you may have to remove some to get bearing preload.
When the bearing preload is correct there will be no in and out movement of the hub when measureed with a dial indicator.

A crude way to determine if you have enough preload is to remove shims until when all is re assembled as you turn one axle with the transmission in neutral the opposite axle will turn in the same direction. However this condition can not be left as is that way. Shims must be added enough so that one wheel turns opposite the other when tested for preload.

Complicated ain't it!

Use RTV glue everywhere. It will not make a difference in shimming measurements. Gaskets are not even needed. Only shims if RTV is used on all surfaces.

Zane