charging system and ignition question.

Soundguy

Link

The first one gives reasons & excuses for converting to 12v & the second gives options for during it correctly. If you spend any time at all on this board, you will see that 75% of the ignition related problems are thanks to a poorly done or poorly understood 12v conversions.

If at all possible, it's still a good idea to measure the actual primary ignition current before starting and using the tractor, if at all possible.

With a functioning ammeter in the dash, you will see it delect to "discharge" when the ignition is switch on. This will give you some idea of the ignition current, NOT as accurate as Amp tester, though.

The bottom line is that you need enough resistance ahead of the coil to limit the primary current to not much over 3 Amps, and DEFINITELY not over 4 Amps. This is with the ignition switch "ON", the engine NOT running, and the breaker points CLOSED.

PLEASE reconsider getting a one-wire alternator. A standard 3-wire unit is really easy to connect up, and CHEAPER, and performs BETTER.

You just need a Delco 10SI alternator, and a diode or "idiot lamp" to connect it up. The diode or the lamp can be used interchangeably.

The current draw through the ignition switch will be LESS than 5 Amps, UNLESS you power headlights through it.

Do you have an 8N chassis or a 9N chassis? The 9N starter switch carries the full current draw of the starter, somewhere between 100 and 200 Amps.

The 8N tranny-top mounted neutral safety starter switch carries only the current needed to activate the solenoid, less than 10 Amps.

Which ever tractor you have, I HOPE you'll retain the functionality of the neutral-safety starter switch!

Thou hast said the thing which should be said. Amen, verily, selah.