Ford 9N does not start

In addition to doing all that SouNdguy suggested,, check for continuity inside the distributor. It is very easy to ground the wire to the condenser when you replace the points. Re-check the point gap at .015 on all four lobes, because points do slip.

Lastly, for future reference, do not replace all of the parts of a 'system' at the same time. Do it one part at a time because now you have the distinct possibility of having defective new parts, as you discovered w/ the new coil.

"First off, get rid of the 'spark tester'. Get an old plug, open the gap to 3/16, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the head, turn the key on & crank the engine."

Once again, I will display my appalling ignorance in matters of this sort. In detail, how do you perform this technique? I've seen Dell and others refer to it, and I'm sure it's second-nature to most everybody here, but I've never messed with electricals, but I do want to know how to trouble-shoot.

Is this a fifth plug you are talking about, with the other four plugs in their sockets and plug wires attached, or is your test plug in one of the plug wires? If so, do you hold this with a tool, or just hold the plug wire? Most importantly, will it knock the crap out of you if you do it wrong? As I've said before, sometimes you gurus need to talk real slowly to us neophytes. Thanks.

You need to be able to observe the color & intensity of the spark as it jumps the 3/16" gap. Lots of electrical theory about the amount of current/voltage required to get a spark to jump a gap under compression..... but, we just cut through all of that by using a 3/16" gap & no compression!

I always keep a spare plug in every one of the N tool boxes, That is the second check I make when the tractor stops. (the first is to check for gas in the tank!)

You do know that it's a 2-bolt job to remove the distribuitor and set points and static timing on yer bench right?

A cheap reprint owners manual will help you as well as a copy of the I&T fo-4 manual.

In any case.. the timeing issue isn't real bad.. generally even if you are out of adjustment.. if all else is good.. they will at least start.

Also.. gently stretch the pigtail spring under the coil to make sure it makes good contact with the ponts screw.

Veryify you have points opening and closing by 1 of 2 ways.

#1, with a test lamp.

Turn ignition on, connect test clip to wire that would go to coil, remove coil, put probe to points screw.. roll engine over.. lamp should blink. If it stays off.. poitns aren't grounding.. or you aren't getting power. If it stays on.. points are shorted or are not opening... points DO slip..

#2, with an ohm meter... use continuity beeper on a digital.. or look for low range / needle swings on an analog.

Remove coil, put one probe to ground, and one probe to points screw.. roll engine over.. listen for beeps.. or look for needle swings. .. same info as above if no swings.. or constant beep.. etc..

lastly.. make sure you have between 2.5 and 3.5 v at the wire for the coil, when it is installed, with points closed. Prime location for loss of voltate is a bad ignition switch.. and / or bad dirty contacts and old wiring between the switch and ballast resistor.

Soundguy