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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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O.T. ford ranger rear axle seal

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philm

08-24-2007 05:39:27




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hello,
I have a 97 ford ranger with a leaky rear axle seal.
I would like to tackle this myself, which would involve the replacement of the seal and the axle bearing.
My questions are: is this a do it yourself job?
Will I be needing any special tools or can I get by without them?




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philm

08-25-2007 06:58:04




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 Re: O.T. ford ranger rear axle seal in reply to philm, 08-24-2007 05:39:27  
Thanks to all.
Sounds to me like one of those jobs that will take ten times more time than you figure it would before you start it.
But, sometime next month or two, I think i will give it a try.



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Hobo,NC

08-24-2007 18:40:14




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 Re: O.T. ford ranger rear axle seal in reply to philm, 08-24-2007 05:39:27  
You will need a special tool to remove the bearing. A 5/16 6 point wrench would come in rite handy removing the spider gear pin. Once the pin is out you may have to rotate the axle to git the spider gears out or may not, if you push in on the axle the C clip that retains the axle will fall out, pull the axle out and then use the end of the axle to pry the seal out, if that does not work use a screw driver and hammer and work the outer edge of the seal in about 1/3 to 1/2 way a round and the seal will come out. Try not to damage the axle housing were the seal sets. Its more like you are trying to crush the outer part of the seal in and not trying to git under it, work around it and it will come out. One more time work around the outer part of the seal till you loosen it up do not try and force it take your time.

Tip B-4 you drive in the new seal pack the back side with grease, this will retain the inner spring on the back side of the seal. If the spring jumps out sometimes you can git it back in and some times not, if not then you will need a new seal. I use a seal driver and that last Damm hit to hear the seal set will knock the Damm spring out, I probably am better off to just use a hammer and tap it in.

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Bob

08-24-2007 07:22:15




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 Re: O.T. ford ranger rear axle seal in reply to philm, 08-24-2007 05:39:27  
I'm 99% certain that has a "semi-floating axle", with "C clip" axle retainers.

There's NO pressing needed, and IIRC, no special tools.

If that's correct, you have to drop the diffy cover, then remove the spider gear pin.

Then, push the offending axle shaft INWARD, allowing the "C-clip" to fall out of the groove in the axle.

Then, the axle can be withdrawn, and the seal popped out and replaced. The bearing is a "straight roller bearing". If it has not been making noise, and the rollers look good, and the wear surface on the axle shaft is good, you should NOT need to replace the bearing.

Get a new bolt to retain the spider gear pin, and reassemble everything, and put the correct oil in the diffy.

You probably might as well replace the other seal as well, they are less than $5.00, and once you have the spider gear pin out, it's not much more to pop the other axle, and do both.

There's 2 seals used, depending upon HD or LD rear axle.

HD rear axle, 8.8" ring gear uses National Seal #8835S.

LD rear axle, 7.5" ring gear uses National seal #8660S.

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Bob N.Y.

08-24-2007 17:26:57




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 Re: O.T. ford ranger rear axle seal in reply to Bob, 08-24-2007 07:22:15  
That is exactly how the 1987-89 Rangers are. I have never been in a newer one.



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ZANE

08-24-2007 06:51:42




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 Re: O.T. ford ranger rear axle seal in reply to philm, 08-24-2007 05:39:27  
It usually takes a press to push the old bearing off and back on.
I usually cut the old bearing off with a cutting torch and then drive the new bearing back on with a drift and hammer. There is also a shrink sweated collar that should be heated and dropped on after the bearing is removed. It has to be cut off too with the torch. A new bearing comes with the collar included.
Don't do what I did the first one I did years ago. I got the old bearing and collar off after beating on it for a day or two with assorted hammers and chisels etc. Then I drove the new bearing down on the axle till it bottomed out and then I drove the new collar firmly down on the new bearing. When I started to install the axle it finally dawned on me that the retainer plate that was supposed to go on first was still lying on the work bench. I had to save up to buy that new bearing. I had to save up again to buy the next one too!!!!!
The seal should be in the axle housing and easy to replace after the axle is pulled.

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