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Clutch works, thanks

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rd99

08-25-2007 10:37:51




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The clutch problems I was having on my 2N are now gone. Do I need to keep a block of wood holding the clutch down when it's parked still? (My grandfather did that).

I took the starter motor off and sprayed two cans of brake cleaner in there. I put the engine crank in and rotated every so often.

The rear weep hole with the cotter pin in it had some sort of build up after I twinked it around some the brake fluid started flowing out of there also.

I could tell the clutch pedal felt different after the first few moments of me working it during spraying.

After putting the starter back on I cranked it up and drove out in first.

I pressed the clutch in and then stayed in 1st and let the clutch out and went forward a bit and pressed the clutch again and the tractor actually stopped moving forward.

Previously if I didn't change gears every time I pressed the clutch in it wouldn't come out of gear and would keep moving in the direction it was going like I only had the clutch barely pressed down.

Thanks for the help guys. I think it took about 10 minutes from start to finish to do. Hopefully that keeps it fixed for a bit.

I like not pushing implements backwards about 10 feet when I'm trying to hook them up.

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soundguy

08-25-2007 22:13:52




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 10:37:51  
Ditto what old said. Keep blocking it when not in use. once they stick.. they like to keep sticking..

soundguy



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old

08-25-2007 13:00:05




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 10:37:51  
Yep keep the pedal blocked down it will help a lot to stop that problem. As far as splitting a tractor I can do it in less the 2 hours but I have all the right tools and also have a good shop to work in with hoist etc.



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rd99

08-25-2007 11:19:47




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 10:37:51  
I can't find which paragraph in the FO-4 talks about the transmission seal, do you know off hand where it is?

I do know that I've got something to eventually replace in the pto, because after about 2 hours of running the tractor with the PTO protective cup screwed in there will be about 1 or 2 ounces of fluid that are in the cup when you unscrew it.



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Dunk

08-25-2007 11:58:27




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 11:19:47  
In the cavity in front of the transmission is yout front tranny shaft that goes thru the clutch, it is inside the tube that your throw out bearing carrier rides on.

All of that is removable by removing the 4 bolts that holds it on the front of the transmission.

In the end closest to the transmission is the seal, take a long rod and knock it out from the front end, with the shaft removed from the tube, then drive the new one back in.

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rd99

08-25-2007 10:57:04




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 10:37:51  
Yeah, I figured I'd need to take it apart eventually.

How long does splitting the tractor take? Is it one of those situations that as long as you have it apart you should do a lot other things too as preventative maintenance or is it somewhat easy to split?



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Dunk

08-25-2007 11:11:42




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 10:57:04  
You would want to see what you thought about the condition of the pressure plate, and the throw out bearing, and look at everything good.

I would recommend replacing the clutch disk, but it may be possible that a good cleaning in gasoline would be enough.

I will let others answer on how hard it is, as I don't see it as that bad, especially since the difference is it stopping when you push in the clutch or not.

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Dunk

08-25-2007 11:12:32




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to Dunk, 08-25-2007 11:11:42  
I did mean to also say that I would replace the pilot bearing too.



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Dunk

08-25-2007 10:45:23




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 Re: Clutch works, thanks in reply to rd99, 08-25-2007 10:37:51  
It sounds to me like your front transmission seal is leaking tranny fluid on the clutch.

You may be repeating this procedure regularly until you finally take it apart and fix it right, or the clutch material swells to the point that the brake cleaner no longer will fix it.

Be careful, at it can be dangerous when your clutch doesn't work, and I do expect that to happen again.



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