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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Starter

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ricko700

10-21-2007 12:35:00




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Ok bench tested it by hooking up jumper cables positive to stud on starter housing and touched negative end to contact at starter..nothing...the tried contact at solenoid..nothing..touched positive to negative cable...lots o sparkies?? WASSUPP??




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Bob

10-21-2007 13:02:52




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 Re: Starter in reply to ricko700, 10-21-2007 12:35:00  
Clamp the (+) cable clamp (not that it matters) to the metal case of the starter. You must have the "through bolts" installed, using nuts... clamp the (+) to one of those. Then, touch the (-) to the stud coming out of the starter. You should get a BIG spark, and the starter should try to flop off of the bench, as it quickly accelerates..



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Dunk

10-21-2007 12:59:06




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 Re: Starter in reply to ricko700, 10-21-2007 12:35:00  
third party image

Here is your previous picture.


Did you ever get all of your brush springs back up on top of your brushes, and holding them against the armature correctly?



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ricko700

10-21-2007 13:38:14




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 Re: Starter in reply to Dunk, 10-21-2007 12:59:06  
Yeah ...it looked like it wuz off in the pic but it wuz on the brush..anyway I took it all apart and cleaned the armature with brake cleaner..put it all back together making sure to keep the bare wires as well as the insulated ones off ANY surface...now I cant even get a spark when I bench test it..Im absolutely sure all the brushes are in rite with springs on rite.



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Bob

10-21-2007 13:47:23




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 Re: Starter in reply to ricko700, 10-21-2007 13:38:14  
Take a close look... you may have torn the solder loose holding the copper "buss bars" in the starter to the terminal stud that passes through the starter's belly.

If the stud has turned, at all, when you have wrenced on the nut, you've probably broke it loose.



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ricko700

10-21-2007 13:49:25




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 Re: Starter in reply to Bob, 10-21-2007 13:47:23  
Are the bus bars those curved plate lookin thangs in the starter..wrapped in some kind of paper?



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Bob

10-21-2007 13:51:51




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 Re: Starter in reply to ricko700, 10-21-2007 13:49:25  
I am referring to the HEAVY copper leads from the field coils in the "belly", yes, probably wrapped in paper/cloth, and soldered to the copper stud sticking out of the starter.



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ricko700

10-21-2007 13:53:08




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 Re: Starter in reply to Bob, 10-21-2007 13:51:51  
Ill get into it and check..thanx



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Bob

10-21-2007 14:02:14




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 Re: Starter in reply to ricko700, 10-21-2007 13:53:08  
The current enters the starter, then, at the stud, splits into 2 completely separate paths.. each through a set of field coils, then though the insulated brush to the armature, and back out the armature through the 2 grounded brushed, to the metal case of the starter,

If you are connecting the "jumpers" correctly, it is rare, indeed, to have NO current flow through the starter. The soldered connection at the copper stud is about the only common point shared by the 2 separated current paths, and that's why I suspect it.

Of course, a SERIOUSLY defective armature could cause the same symptoms, but let's start with the simple stuff!

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Dunk

10-21-2007 14:20:49




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 Re: Starter in reply to Bob, 10-21-2007 14:02:14  
Bob, If he had the insulated brushes in the non-insulated brush holders, and vice versa, would it be shorted or open?

That makes my head hurt.



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ricko700

10-21-2007 15:05:00




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 Re: Starter in reply to Dunk, 10-21-2007 14:20:49  
They would not reach anyway...and I know for certain I never switched them.....but I did tear it apart again and noticed that the stud (copper) into the starter has not moved.. it was very tight even without the nut on..the solid bar from one field to the other might be loose at the stud side ..it seemed to wiggle a bit and the bar thing was bent (like that when I first opened it)anyway I get sparkies now since I straightened that flat bar connecting the 2 fields..I guess it put pressure on a possible broken solder joint like was mentioned b4??

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Bob

10-21-2007 14:23:11




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 Re: Starter in reply to Dunk, 10-21-2007 14:20:49  
DEAD short. That would take the armature "out of the circuit", and simply ground the brushes, which are in the circuit AFTER the field coils.



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