I just did a ring gear replacement 2 weeks ago. I did read the FO-4 which said to heat gear to 250F, so I used BBQ and heated to 500F. No way would it go over the slight step on the pressure plate side of the flywheel. I tried with oxy-propane torch and could not get it hot enough all around. The dealer I bought the parts from said that these parts (ring gears) today need to be brought up to a dull red heat all around. So I set up the propane "dragon's breath" torch and build a temp oven out of a dozen firebrick. Now I could get it hot enough (dull red all around) that it slipped over the step on the flywheel. When someone says to look for the taper side, they are referring to the inside edge (ID) of the gear. One side has a slight taper (champhered edge)to help you get it in place as you tap it down on the flywheel. This champhered edge goes on first, and actually faces the front of the tractor when the flywheel is installed. This champhered edge will be completely hidden when it is correctly installed. The taper has nothing to do with the starter engaging the ring gear teeth. If you put the ring gear on "backwards" by putting the squared inner edge on the flywheel first, and you can get it into a fully seated position, then it will make no difference to how the starter engages the teeth. Do not quench the hot ring gear, you will make it way too brittle. Once I had it tapped firmly into place, I covered it with dry wood ash to slow the cooling, and help assure that it will be of uniform temper. It went on easily when dull red, and shrunk tight so that there is no slippage after cooling and installation in the tractor. The easy way to remove the old ring gear is to use the "red wrench" and make 2 cuts 180 deg apart that get close to the flywheel edge. Then it is only 2 or 3 hits with a stout cold chisel and the BFH and the ring gear will split and nearly fall off. I wasted a couple of days trying other more gentle methods to remove and reinstall, but this is what worked for me. Good luck! Paul in MN
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