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Carb Cleaning

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Iron Rose Farms

10-29-2007 22:08:46




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I have been trying to hold off until I could afford another carb but have suddenly been faced with the need to get my 1940 9N running a lot better a lot sooner.

The problems I am having is that the two adjustment needles make nearly no difference in the running of my tractor regardless of position. you can take them both all the way out and other than it will sputter a bit it won't kill it. With the needles in the tractor it runs too lean and causes it to over heat and it simply lacks power.
I know most carb problems are electrical but the electrical is all new and is followed exactly per the diagram used here for the 12V intrusion... Spark is good and hot on all cylinders.

I have tore it down the carb, cleaned it and it has a brand new kit in it, I am sure I am missing something in the cleaning... so anyone who has a method or secret for these old carbs, please post it in detail... Money is too tight to replace it and time is too short to wait.

Thanks in advance

James

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Sean (TX)

11-01-2007 02:44:39




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to TheOldHokie, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
Go to a auto part store and get a gallon bucket of carb cleaner. Disasemble carb and let it soak for a day or two. Run a wire through all the passages then blow them out with compressed air...

third party image



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Iron Rose Farms

10-31-2007 20:06:24




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
I just replied in the other thread,

You guys are amazing.

James



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GB in MT.

10-31-2007 21:18:24




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-31-2007 20:06:24  
Post all replys to the other thred, so we don't have two threds for the same thing.

Garythird party image



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Dan in CO

10-31-2007 06:42:39




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
James;

Send me your mailing address & I will overnight you a carb that I know works. I just put a new one on my 2N after rebuilding the old one. My rebuild didn't go too well, but at least the tractor ran well at high idle, so I know the carb will work better than the description you have posted of your's. I don't want anything for the carb or mail costs, just will make me feel good to help out another tractor guy having hard times.

My email is: dvork@mesanetworks.net

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GB in MT.

10-31-2007 07:00:51




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Dan in CO, 10-31-2007 06:42:39  


Dan; I think this is great of you. Tractor people helping tractor people.

I was in the throws of buying a used one and send it to him. I'll wait, to see what happen's with you offer.

Let me know on here what His responce was.!!!!???

Garythird party image

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Dan in CO

10-31-2007 14:42:39




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to GB in MT., 10-31-2007 07:00:51  
Gary;

No response as yet, I am posting this response to get this message back to the top so that if he gets on-line he is more likley to see it (in the modern view). I will wait awile & also post a specific message for Iron Rose Farms so that the message will be current in the classic view.



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GB in MT.

10-31-2007 20:06:11




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Dan in CO, 10-31-2007 14:42:39  


Bringing to the top, so James can read aall the posts.

Garythird party image



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Iron Rose Farms

10-30-2007 20:37:05




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
I've gone through the "procedure" for adjusment and the needles make no difference in the running of the tractor. As for the jets being confused... well, I think I got it right? I've tinkered with this thing so long now I can't guarantee anything. Is there a way to double check it?

I need help with this thing but can't financially afford the expense to have someone do it for me. I had one very fine gentleman offer to help out if I send it to him but after checking postage to get it there and back I just can not do it.

If anyone is willing to give me detailed instructions on how they go through one of the carbs I would be very appreciative.

What are you folks using to soak it over night? Do you have a favorite carb cleaner (I normally use gumout brand)
I don't have a guitar around but my bride plays mandolin and I'll steal one of her strings and try it as a cleaning tool...

Medical bills are eating us alive and I am facing possible surgery, so we have decided to sell our hogs, it is basicly down to feed the hogs or feed our kids... We have already had three four wheel drive trucks stuck trying to get the trailer back to the hog lots and this has also only made the problem worse and we are expecting more rain now. With the tractor I can load them one at a time on a modified carry all and haul them to the trailer but the tractor has to run better than it is right now to accomplish this. I have enough feed for 3 days so time is ticking fast and auction day is Friday.

Thanks for your help

James

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GB in MT.

10-31-2007 06:55:58




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-30-2007 20:37:05  
James;

I just read this, and have sent you another email, to let you know, what is going on at this end.

Respond: By Email ASAP!!!!

Gary( under the gun)third party image



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old

10-30-2007 08:43:36




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
Carbs can be a pain to rebuild. It takes 24 hours of soaking and then air pressure and cans of carb cleaner to do a good job. From what you said you missed some thing when you opened it up so you will need to open it again. Make sure you can spray carb cleaner in all the holes and it should spray out in other places. Also in the center of the carb is a tube that sits at a 45 degree angle you need to pull it out and make sure the holes in it are open. Some have 2 holes some have more. Its hard to explain all that need to be done to get one right

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soundguy

10-30-2007 06:10:44




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
remember.. removing an idle needle LEANS the mix.

I like to use fine wire.. like guitar 'high' E strings for cleaning really dirty passageways.

You can also get rolls of fine steel wire from craft stores.. or if you live by a musician or music store.. you can buy a really cheap guitar E string singally..

Soundguy



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LeeMo

10-30-2007 14:13:26




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to soundguy, 10-30-2007 06:10:44  
or pull apart an old voltage regulator and use the fine copper wire from the windings.



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soundguy

10-30-2007 19:22:07




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to LeeMo, 10-30-2007 14:13:26  
I've used magnet wire and copepr winding wire before.. but the only problem I've found is that the carb cleaner sometimes disolves the shelac on the copper.. also the copper is soft.. and while not often.. I have had some break... on the flip sid ethe guitar string is really strong.. but gotta be carefull on aluminum parts with it.

Soundguy



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Dave H

10-30-2007 05:19:49




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
I don't assume that the passages are free by just blowing air in there. One way to test is to put the air in one endof a passage and then feel with the finger on the other end. It has to have a jet coming out of it. There are also different size drills that you can work thru the pasages with fingers to remove scale.



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ericlb

10-30-2007 04:25:56




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
another thing i discovered when i put a new kit in my carb this weekend is that there are 2 new idle screws that came in the kit, both will screw in the carb but only one is correct the seat angles on them are different you need to use one one that matchec your old one, i had to look at them awhile before choosing, any chance you might have installed the wrong screw?



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Tom N MS

10-30-2007 04:01:48




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
Did you replace all the jets. Reason I ask is that in some of the MS carbs, there are two jets that will interchange, as far as screwing into either of two holes. I bought a clean, used MS carb on ebay..had all new parts, but was advertised as not running right..Two jets were in the wrong place. I swapped places with them and it runs like a new one..Other than checking for that, clean, clean and clean some more. Link

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Tom N MS

10-30-2007 03:53:39




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  
Dell's carb. adjustment instructions:I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-12 turns and LEAVITT!!! then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for maximum idle rpms, NOT SMOOTHEST idle, MAX idle rpms. I then set the behind the carb idle-speed screw for SLOOOooow 400rpms idle. (ennythang under 500rpms is good) I do the idlemix adjust dance at least 3-times. Remember the side-pointing idle mix is BASSACKWARDS; out for lean, IN for ENRICH. My idlemix usually ends up about 38 turn. Yours will be different..... .....Dell

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Britcheflee

10-30-2007 02:50:04




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 Re: Carb Cleaning in reply to Iron Rose Farms, 10-29-2007 22:08:46  

Iron Rose Farms said: (quoted from post at 22:08:46 10/29/07) I have been trying to hold off until I could afford another carb but have suddenly been faced with the need to get my 1940 9N running a lot better a lot sooner.

The problems I am having is that the two adjustment needles make nearly no difference in the running of my tractor regardless of position. you can take them both all the way out and other than it will sputter a bit it won't kill it. With the needles in the tractor it runs too lean and causes it to over heat and it simply lacks power.
I know most carb problems are electrical but the electrical is all new and is followed exactly per the diagram used here for the 12V intrusion... Spark is good and hot on all cylinders.

I have tore it down the carb, cleaned it and it has a brand new kit in it, I am sure I am missing something in the cleaning... so anyone who has a method or secret for these old carbs, please post it in detail... Money is too tight to replace it and time is too short to wait.

Thanks in advance

James


Are you doing these adjustments with the tractor at idle?

I understand that the two needles serve two separate jobs - the one on the side of the carb facing you as you look at it is for the idle adjustment - the one facing the front towards the radiator is for the high speed rich/lean and will therefore have almost no affect at low rpm.

First make sure your carb is attached tight to the intake manifold and that you tightened down the top of the carb so no air leaks - then try this method which is a bit different than the standard way of setting it but might work for you and was told to me by an old guy who works on these tractors..

Push throttle lever up 3/4 way so engine is running medium fast - have needle facing radiator out about 4-5 turns then very gradually turn it in a tiny bit at a time - wait a moment then in a bit more - eventually engine will sputter - then turn back out until engine starts to pick up again - this should set the needle in the right position - if your engine is running too fast at idle the idle adjustment may not make any difference - you might want to first adjust idle speed down low then see if idle adjustment needle makes any difference.

I know when I took my old carb off there was a lot of crud in there and I had to go back in and give it another clean and shot with high pressure air as there was still stuff in it.

Good luck - I know how you feel having done this myself - but with assistance from others here managed to get mine running pretty good.

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