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Amazingly enough, a 'lamp' harness can be made from about 3' of 14awg wire and a few ring terminal ends and a lamp switch. DonB carries a premade harness. i loked at the aprts section here but did not see one. Pick up power from the load side of your ammeter.. IE, wire your lamp switch to the same terminal that the ignition switch gets it's power from.. run that short 4" wire from there to the lamp switch, then from the lamp switch forwar to one lamp, then parallel a line over across to the other lamp. For quick and dirty instalation.. tha's al there is to it. To make it 'better', I usually will run a ground wire from the block up to the lamp housing and make sure the lamp shell is grounded by using a star washer.. I then also parallel this ground wire over to the other lamp... this way the lamp does not have to rely on 50 year old reust sheetmetal connections for a ground path. Like I said about 3' of wire and 4 ring terminals for the 'basic setup' and add another few feet and terminals if you run grounds. Adding some spagetti looming to the wireing is another 'plus'.. though not expresly needed.. but nice to have. Make sure you use a lamp switch that has a fuse holder, OR wire in a fuse holder in the short 4" wire fromt he power feed to the switch. 6v 35w lamps consume 5.83 amps each
6v 55w lamps consume 9.16 amps each ( if you can find 55w lamps ) 12v 35w lamps consume 2.91 amps each
12v 55w lamps consume 4.58 amps each. Size your fuse by adding your lamp current draw up and then rounding up to the next 'common' fuse size. IE.. (2) 6v 35w headlamps will consume about 11.66 amps. I'd go with a 15a fuse.. possibly fast acting. if you have a tail lamp on this circuit that jumps to 17.5a.. thus requiring a 20a fuse.. again.. fast acting is my preference. By placing the fuse holder in the small feed wire to the lamp switch .. you protect everything upstream.. including faults that may occur if the lamp switch fails internally and shorts to the housing. Soundguy
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