Electronic ignition will not fire???

Was it worth it?

Do you have the power to the EI installed AFTER any resistors that might have been in line with the ignition coil?

Soundguy

soundguy

And your original ignition switch "ON" wire goes thru the "infamous ballast resistor" to the top of the squarecan coil single terminal. So it is very difficult to have a red + wire and a black - wire going to both sides of the 1-terminal squarecan ignition coil. Isn't that amazing???

Check yer wiring AGAIN, 'cuz as you described it, it is IMPOSSIBLE..... ....respectfully, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

I can change a whole lotta old fashioned ignition points for the price of an electronic ignition that is sensitive to errant voltage spikes and temperatures and loose connections. I am NOT IMPRESSED with Petronix frontmount electronic ignitions. They SUCK.

I know and understand electronic ignitions. I built my first electronic ignition from scratch in 1963 for my 1956 Dodge D-500 Hemi-V8. ..... ...respectfully, Dell, retired Electronics Engineer

Sounds like this is what you have (see pix). Previous page of instructions says,"A minimum primary resistance of 3 ohms is required".****
This means coil plus ballast resistor (unless coil has 3 ohms stand alone, then no ballast needed).

This ballast, if needed must be in BLACK wire, NOT Red wire and NOT both black & red.
If in Red, module does not get sufficient voltage. If coil is less than 3 ohms & you do NOT have ballast resistor, then you have probably already 'let the smoke out' of the Pertronix module and maybe coil as well.

IMO the Red wire should be connected directly to the Switch, same side as the coil, such that coil inductive spikes (noise) are not common to the module's Vcc. This will become a problem if the Coil Wire (resistance) & its connections are flawed/Bad. 2ZWUDZ, 1. The Only electrical Connection you have not checked is "GROUND". The Timing TAB Screw must be Very Tight, it Provides Ground between the Mounting Plate & Distributor Body. The Mounting Ear's Bolts must also be Tight. 2. Make sure you do not have any Resistance(like old Ballast R) between Ignition Switch and the Coil +ve (assumes wired Per Kit Instructions)

JMHO