Rebuilt Gen ,new cutout relay and problem

NOTE: If your's is a "front-mount distributor", one or more resistors will ALWAYS be used in the power lead to the ignition coil.

The starter solenoids are "odd", by today's standards, cause they need to have the little terminal GROUNDED (by the tranny-top neutral safety stert switch) to activate the solenoid, just the opposite of how most modern starter solenoids are activated.

Mine is the ole loop type, and I have mine in backwards, it shows discharge to mean charge.

But you know what???

In my weired way of thinking it is a positive ground.

SO, why shouldn't negative be charging????

Then, on to the resistor (both terminals), and on to the coil.

It's POSSIBLE you just have a broken wire or a poor connection somewhere.

Also what I'm having trouble understanding is how the trouble with the generating system I may have caused may be affecting the ignition system. Shouldn't it still run but not charge?

You will find that out with the test light.

Or, PERHAPS, the points or coil just happened to coincidently fail at the same time as the charging system. The way things go, that wouldn't surprise me, either!

IF they were stuck when the engine was shut down, the battery will be drained through the cutout and generator, heating them up, as well as any and all wires and connections in between.

Likely, when you started it and it was discharging, it was "charging backwards", and burnt and stuck the cutout points.

When you shut it down, it either simply drained the battery through the stuck cutout and the generator, or you burned up some wiring and/or the generator and cutout.

Check that the battery is charged, and connected with the desired polarity, (it was (+) ground from the factory).

(IF the tractor is set up (+) ground AND the rebuilder knew what he was doing, and tested the rebuilt generator to charge (+) ground, it should have worked, EVEN IF you forgot to polarize the generator.)

If the battery is discharged, you'll have to disconnect the shorted cutout, and charge the battery, then it SHOULD start.

If the battery IS still charged, you'll have to check the wiring, to see where the smoke was let out.

I have some nice literature direct from the manufacturer showing how toy properly polarize a system.

Someone else also posted some polarization instructions that were embossed right on the regulator can for their charging system.

Now.. if polarizing was a myth.. why do you suppose that companies went to the trouble to publish info in their expensive service manuals on how to do it properly.. and what can happen if yuo do it improperly... Further.. with parts costs as they are.. why pay to emboss the metal can on a regulator with explicit instructions and a diagram if it was a myth? The answer of course, is what i stated in my first line... polarizing is not a myth.. except to you maybee.

soundguy

HOWEVER, the poor little cutout is between the battery and the generator, and OFTEN suffers the consequences of the battery "ruling"!