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Flictrical problem

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Smokeys427

11-22-2007 18:03:01




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Have a '49 8N with a front mount distributor that's been converted to a 12 volt system (GM alternator) and has a strange electrical problem.
It seems to charge fine but I think it's over charging.
The first symptom was that the tractor was cutting out and noticed a funny smell and then noticed that the battery was dead and seemed shorted. I think it fried the battery because it was flat dead

Put a new battery in and she ran great again but I noticed that it had a draw.
With ignition key off, I noticed that when I unhook and re-hook up the battery that I have a slight spark telling me it has a small draw.

Ok, I then notice with the tractor off the battery hooked up and I take off the two wire connector on the alternator (internal regulator) the short is gone. Would this be a shorted internal regulator in the alternator? Again it charges great.

I also notice on the amp gauge that as the battery is charging the amps needle never goes down (unless I bring the RPM down)
like a volt meter would as the battery has fully charged.
Hope I'm explaining this ok

Thanks in advance,

Smokey

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Smokeys427

11-23-2007 11:46:14




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 Re: Flictrical problem in reply to Dunk, 11-22-2007 18:03:01  
Thanks Soundguy! That may very well be the problem since it does not have a plug. It just two wires with female spade connectors going to the internal regulator.third party image
We gotta cold blast the other day and I'll report my findings to y'all when it warms up a bit.

Thanks again for everyone's help.third party image

Again is there a way to edit a post in the new forums after you submit it????

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soundguy

11-23-2007 08:05:48




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 Re: Flictrical problem in reply to Smokeys427, 11-22-2007 18:03:01  
Good info by hobo and Bob.

Make sure you don't somehow have that connector plugged in backwards.. otherwise.. I think the alt needs to see the doctor and have a chanckup.

DO make sure that the #1 terminal is only powered when the ignition is on.. etc..

Soundguy



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Smokeys427

11-23-2007 07:48:20




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 Re: Alternator problems? in reply to soundguy, 11-22-2007 18:03:01  
Bob, thanks for the good info. I kind of suspected something like this as the wiring is of the homemade variety.
What threw me is that the tractor never charged until I bought a new alternator. When I put the new one on I never noticed anything until the I noticed the draw.
So what I did after use, I just pulled the battery cable and I've been doing this for the last year and using it on a regular bases. Then I ran into the sulfur smell and it started running bad getting me to think of the alternator was over charging.
Well to make the long story short I starting hunting the draw down by disconnecting things and when I disconnected the regulator connector at the alternator the draw was gone.
I'm going to try a new alternator first since it's a freebie and if it does the same thing I'll get a new wiring harness.

Now, If I buy the new 12 volt wiring harness does the diode come with it or will I have to add it in?

Hobo, thanks for letting me know and I knew the difference but the old gray matter just doesn't send the right signal to the fingers and to the keyboard correctly at times.third party image

BTW Yes, I also noticed I spelled electrical as "Flictrical" but couldn't find the "EDIT" button to fix that.third party imagethird party image

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Hobo,NC

11-22-2007 18:44:00




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 Re: Flictrical problem in reply to Smokeys427, 11-22-2007 18:03:01  
BTW its not a short its a draw,,, a short makes smoke and usually no problem to find,,, follow the smoke. Your problem is with the switch off something is still drawing current from the battery,,, a short would soon fix its self by burning the circuit out.



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Bob

11-22-2007 18:29:49




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 Alternator problems? in reply to Smokeys427, 11-22-2007 18:03:01  
You need to check the charging voltage at the battery. You are expecting about 14.5 Volts, or even a little more.

It is POSSIBLE the old battery could have been sulfated, or had a shorted cell, making the other cells get overcharged, heating and boiling the battery.

On the alternator, the #1 terminal is the "switched excite" terminal, and should only have power when the ignition switch is "ON".

If the #1 terminal has power to it with the ignition switch "off", the voltage regulator will keep the alternator's rotating field energized, until the battery is run down.

The #2 terminal is "voltage sense", and can be powered at all times.

You need an "idiot lamp", a resistor, or a diode in the lead to the #1 terminal to prevent "current backfeeding" and engine run-on when the ignition switch is shut off, as well as to protect the diode trio and voltage regulator inside the alternator.

Try disconnecting ONLY the wire from the #1 terminal, and see if your battery drain goes away. If so, you need to make some wiring changes.

If NOT, it sounds like the alternator has internal problems, likely a bad diode.

Third Party Image

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