|
I would suggest that you think in terms of using the shaft, blade mount/arbor, etc. as the beginning point for a "more" permanent saw mill type of setup. Then use a longer belt and the belt pulley on the "N" to drive it - from a suitable distance, maybe even at right angle to the current set up, since with belts up could create a setup that would allow the belts to turn 90 degrees - done all the time with things like mower decks on lawn/garden tractors. OR you might be able to adapt a bush hog gear box to drive the belt and drive the gear box with a PTO shaft. Actually, you could mount the belt drive gear box to the new saw frame, use the existing belt, and a suitable PTO shaft between it and the "N". Then either a tensioner to start/stop the blade or make it fixed, with springs, that could be adjusted to hold proper tension. Then you could build a "trolley" to run on angle iron tracks, corner of angle up with "V" notched wheel to rid on it. Make the track as long as you need, but could easily be extended. Some "V" belts and a tensioner, like a lot of mowers, could give up a driven feed for the carriage - would have to work out the right speed for the carriage to get the "gear down" correct - so much of a fraction of an inch for one revolution of the blade, so you would not choke the blade trying to cut too much at once. So many ideas, so little time to build them. :-))) AND if you did it right you would not have to alter any part of the original cord wood saw. So it could be put back as it is to then do what it was intended to do, cut fire wood - get you warm twice. :-)
|
