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Dan, I Need Proofmeter Help

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Mashbox

12-13-2007 14:00:39




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I have read in several posts that aftermarket proofmeters are not reliable, especially if made overseas. I am starting to restore my '54 NAA, and would like to leave the original proofmeter in place, since it still works. However, over the years the face, while still readable, has developed a layer of rust.
I am looking for tips on rebuilding my proofmeter. How do I get it apart? Can the face be cleaned? Can I buy a replacement faceplate and change it out? If so, where can I buy one. How do I get the neede off?

Thanks for your help.

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Mashbox

12-13-2007 17:38:03




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 Re: Dan, I Need Proofmeter Help in reply to Mashbox, 12-13-2007 14:00:39  
Sorry for not giving this info before. The proofmeter is on my '54 NAA. I believe it to be original, but if it is a replacement, it was done many years ago. And it still operates perfectly. I just want to get it cleaned up.

Can you tell me where I can get a new decal for the face? Also, when I pull the needle, will it only reinstall one way, or do I need to somehow mark it"s location to reinstall it correctly?

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Tool Kat

12-13-2007 18:47:56




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 Re: Dan, I Need Proofmeter Help in reply to Mashbox, 12-13-2007 17:38:03  
Original Proofs made by King-Seeley. Look at rear of case for KS in circle. You may be even be able to clean the rear of the case (carefully) and read the original Ford part number and manufacture date (rubber stamped).
Tool Kat



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Dan

12-13-2007 15:55:42




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 Re: Dan, I Need Proofmeter Help in reply to Mashbox, 12-13-2007 14:00:39  
I have rebuilt several successfully - the trick is patience. If the proofmeter has two small flathead screws close to the hour meter window holding the face on - it can be fully rebuilt. If it is a later model, or aftermarket version that has two round head rivets towards the outside edge holding the face on - you will have some troubles. The aftermarket faceplate decals are designed for the 8N proofmeters with the screws, and the decal has holes for these screws that will not line up if you have the riveted version.

You remove the glass by carfully prying around the edge of the ring that is holding the glass in place with a small flathead screwdriver - go slow. Once you get this ring pried back, remove it and the glass. There is a specialized needle puller, but I have had good luck with needle nose pliers on either side close to the shaft. Take everything apart and clean it up good, then use a light oil putting it back togther (I use 3 in 1 oil, but that is not the best stuff). I sand the face down with 400 grit sandpaper to remove all rust and old paint before putting the new decal on. When you put everything back together, use the flat side of the screwdriver to bend the crimped ring back.

Let me know if you need more detail on something.

Dan

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Tool Kat

12-13-2007 14:59:38




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 Re: Dan, I Need Proofmeter Help in reply to Mashbox, 12-13-2007 14:00:39  
I know I'm not Dan, but I have been down this route before, and may be able to help. If the face is really rusted, then there is a good chance the guts are too, and will need to be replaced. The NAA and 8n proofs are different- needles and internal gearing. I would suggest having a pro rebuild it as you could make it worse by taking it apart with the wrong tools. I can recomend Scott Speedometer, Pontiac, Mi. They are not cheap, but do excellent work.
Tool Kat

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