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8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start

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Ed S. (IL)

12-27-2007 20:25:47




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The last few times I used the '50 8N frontmount (rotary mowed the corn stubble after my corn picker accident about 6 weeks ago), she was acting a little hard to wake up, and sure enough, now that it's cold, she won't start.

She'll crank over just fine (until I run the battery down, but an overnight on the charger brings her right back up to normal 6V cranking speed), but other than one brief 10 second run, she will not even pop now after many attempts. We even tried pull-starting today, but the ground and even our rural road were too icy to get enough traction to get her to spin up much (and for the few short times the wheels did turn, still no fire). I even added some gas, and cleaned the strainer bowl - gas flows freely when the valve is open.

It's been about three years since I replaced points, etc., and since I had a new set sitting in the pile of parts that is my other 8N, I pulled the distributer and replaced points, rotor, condenser and cap, but to no avail. Still no "pop." The old points were about completely closed up (paper-thin gap when open).

I'll get out tomorrow and do the "old spark plug" test as well as measure volts to the coil (which looked fine - i.e., not melted due to switch being left on). I also plan to test the ign. switch by jumpering across the terminals. The switch was new about 3 yrs. ago, but I know they can fail...

Will check this post in the late morning before heading outside, so any other suggestions on things to check will certainly be considered and attempted.

Got 2-4" of snow heading our way, and am itching to get some seat time in with the backblade!

es

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Ed S. (IL)

12-29-2007 18:42:30




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start - FIXED in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Tractor is fixed and runs great now. Problem was that the lead wire to the coil had broken but was hanging on by the insulation, making it look okay (original wiring, had been patched in numerous other places previously). Decided to go ahead and install a new wiring harness (yet another part stolen from my project N), and everything hooked up and worked fine right off the bat.

Had an enjoyable hour or so plowing snow this evening, too!

Thanks again,

es

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TimPa

12-28-2007 10:52:21




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
you say gas flowed freely, was that from the strainer/sediment drain or the carb bowl drain? that's where you want to check it.



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Jack - Illinois

12-28-2007 07:10:59




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
Maybe your sparkplugs are fouled out. You found closed up points which means you probably got lots of gas in the cylinders and no fire previously. Put in new ones or switch the ones from your other "N" to the non runner.



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Upper Peninsula,MI.

12-28-2007 06:42:48




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
ES. You certainly have received good advice. In addition, suggest you clean all the electrical connections nice and bright. Don't take long, but well worth it,even in the cold temps your working in. Then follow the advice you received. If it ran good up to now, it will as soon as you've cleaned and set everything up properly. Good idea to jump start directly to the starter in this cold weather. Happy New Year & good luck. Ron

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Bruce (VA)

12-28-2007 05:36:03




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
If it has no spark, or a weak spark, my guess is that it the source of the problem will be in the distributor.

First, make sure you have battery voltage to the coil. Next, does the ammeter dip as the points close? Next, check for continuity inside the distributor w/ a meter or test light. It is very easy to ground the wire to the condenser when you replace the points. Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Points do slip closed! And, as I know from personal experience, the rubbing block on some of the ‘made overseas’ points do wear out sooner than you would expect. Make sure you have the star washer under the screws on the points.

Next, with the distributor still off the tractor, install the coil. Test for continuity from the top of the coil to the points. If you do not have continuity, stretch the pigtail a bit until you do.

Post back w/ results & any other questions.

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Ed S. (IL)

12-28-2007 05:27:11




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
Yep, I thought about the starter... Roll starting would basically accomplish the same thing as using a 12v jump, and we got no pops pulling her around. I'm pretty sure I'm going to find no or weak spark when I brave the cold to go check...

BTW, I did have to pull the starter back when I picked the corn 6+ weeks ago - the bendix pin had worked out, and I almost lost the bendix to the bowels of the N. Found a new pin (of the correct length - the original was apparently too long for the new-style bendix and didn't sit within the washer, which allowed it to work out over time), and made sure the mating surfaces were clean when I put the starter back in.

es

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old

12-27-2007 21:43:06




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 Re: 8N (frontmount) Cranks, No Start in reply to Ed S. (IL), 12-27-2007 20:25:47  
First place to start is the spark test. No spark or weak spark will keep one form running every time. You could also have a starter going bad and takeing to many amps to have a good spark. Easy way to test that is by turning it over with a 12 volt battery but leave the 6 volt there for the spark. I.E. use a 12 volt battery to turn it over by hooking it right to the starter.

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