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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

46 2N 12V Conversion Help Please!

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quiggs12

01-01-2008 09:52:33

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I just bought a single-wire alternator conversion kit and am having issues. I initially lost the wiring diagram while shopping for additional wire at a store. I found several diagrams online but they are all a little different. I tried 2 different set ups that look the most applicable to my situation but still am having issues. When I turn the key on the ammeter does nothing, and I know it should have power with the key on. The ammeter worked before so I suspect it is fine. The engine turns over but it seems like it is not getting power to the coil. I am in need of help from anyone knowledgeable. Thanks

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Dunk

01-01-2008 17:18:12

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Re: 46 2N 12V Conversion Help Please! in reply to quiggs12, 01-01-2008 09:52:33

From a totally stock wiring, and this is just as best as I remember from nearly 25 years ago, and on my 49 8N.

Take the genny off and replace it with the one wire alternator. (Oh yeah, mine is a 6v posi-ground, that I had special built)

Then take the voltage regulator off, and all the wires that go to it.

The one wire from the, one wire alternator, needs to hook on the battery side of your switch, if you hook it on the coil side of your switch you can't cut the tractor off, and there is more than one place that can be done.

It also needs to hook on the battery side of your switch, AFTER the wire that you hook it to, goes thru your ammeter.

Maybe that makes sense (I'm not so sure, LOL).

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soundguy

01-01-2008 11:29:27

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Re: 46 2N 12V Conversion Help Please! in reply to quiggs12, 01-01-2008 09:52:33

What Bob said.

plus.. the bulk of your stock N wire diagram is still applicable. Base your wireing around your amp meter. All electrical loads and the alternator wire go to one side of it. the other side of the ampmenter goes ONLY tot he battery. This gives you the net charge / discharge setup your N came with.

make sure you have power tot he key switch and coil when trying to crank.

soundguy

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Bob

01-01-2008 10:49:56

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Re: 46 2N 12V Conversion Help Please! in reply to quiggs12, 01-01-2008 09:52:33

The ammeter WON'T move when you turn the key "ON", unless the engine has stopped at a point where the breaker points are CLOSED AND you have power to the coil, and there is continuity from the coiled "spring thingy" at the bottom of the coil all the way through to the closed breaker pointts, to ground. You might start by checking the voltage at the coile top (primary) terminal with the ignition switch "ON".

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quiggs12

01-01-2008 11:47:38

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Re: 46 2N 12V Conversion Help Please! in reply to Bob, 01-01-2008 10:49:56

I have the one wire from the alternator going straight into one side of the ammeter. Two wires go from the other side of the ammeter, one to the junction post of the of the resister found below the ammeter and the other to the positive side of the battery. The wire connected to the coil goes into an additional resistor, not the previous one mentioned, and then from that resister to one side of the two posts, not including the junction post, of the other resistor, the one found under the ammeter. Then there are 2 wires coming from the ignition key. One goes to the junction post and the other goes to the unused additional post, both part of the resistor found below the ammeter. What should I do from here and how do I test for anything??? Thanks

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Bob

01-01-2008 13:21:05

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Re: 46 2N 12V Conversion Help Please! in reply to quiggs12, 01-01-2008 11:47:38

The wire from the starter switch (battery) goes to one side of the ammeter, and the wire from the alternator and ALL electrical loads go to the other side. Connecting the loads to the post on the terminal strip feed from the ammeter is the same thing. If the ammeter reads backwards, swap the wires between the posts.

Try THIS diagram, and omit the 2 wires to the alternator that your "one-wire' alternator doesn't require.

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IF you are using s recently-purchased so-called "12-Volt" front-mount coil, OMIT the "converting resistor", leaving the OEM ballast resistor in the circuit, as it seems the so-called "12-Volt coils" NEED it to limit primary current to a safe level (3 - 4 Amps).

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