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Oil pressure relief valve

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ToMater

01-28-2008 09:24:23

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Some of you may remember me mentioning that I cracked my timing cover when tightening the oil relieve valve nut. I got a good used cover from John Smith and I was test running the nut in and the nut stops 1/8" prior to shouldering up. I realize a gasket is required here but I would think that it would run all the way in without the gasket. I see no problems with the nut threads. I've filed them and get very little change. Does anyone know what threads these are? They don't appear to be a taper thread. I don't want screw my replacement cover up.

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ToMater

01-28-2008 12:46:04

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Re: Oil pressure relief valve in reply to JMOR, 01-28-2008 09:24:23

The nut is receased on the inside to hold the spring. Yes I pulled out the spring and plunger to look on the inside and found a ball bearing. I feel certain that this is not supposed to be in there. The reason I got into this mess is because my oil pressure was pegging my new gauge at 50 psi. After the tractor warmed it would idle at 25 psi. With any rpm at all it would got to 50 again. I bought a new relief spring and was reinstalling when I cracked the threads of of one side of the fitting. Intrestingly enough the new spring is much stiffer than the one I took out. I would think that will get the pressure even higher. How the ball bearing was factoring into the pressure equasion I haven't ciphered on yet.

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Dean

01-28-2008 14:15:54

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Re: Oil pressure relief valve in reply to ToMater, 01-28-2008 12:46:04

Sounds to me like a PO made a misguided attempt to increase oil pressure by "shimming" the spring with the BB.

In the late 60s OP was a bragging right in my area for our muscle cars. We would stretch, shim, replace the springs, run 40 wt oil, etc., to out do the next guy.

A good friend of mine had a 425 HP 409 W block in a 57 Chevy. He found a deeper truck filter cannister to fit but did not have the longer bolt needed to bolt it to the block so he cut another bolt off to weld up a longer one.

To impress us all with his OP he removed the oil pressure relief spring and replaced it with a nail.

One morning when the temperature was near 0, the weld failed and the cannister blew off when he started it.

Dean

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souNdguy

01-28-2008 13:35:53

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Re: Oil pressure relief valve in reply to ToMater, 01-28-2008 12:46:04

My guess is the BB was int here with the plunger so there was NO play in the relief at all.. IE maz pressure. Notice your plunger does have 1 tapered edge.. whereas the BB does not.

just a WAG..

soundguy

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Dell (WA)

01-28-2008 10:04:32

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Re: Oil pressure relief valve in reply to ToMater, 01-28-2008 09:24:23

Tom..... ...unfortunately, my MPC doesn't give physical dimensions, but you are correct, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN yer NUT. It is NOT taper thread

Iff'n I remember, the nut is hollow to center the stem of yer relief valve plunger and also allow it to plunge ...er... pop-off?

Did you "inspect" yer relief valve hole fer sumptin stuck inside or NUT hole???

Maybe John Smith can answer yer questions more better..... ..Dell

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