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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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First Ford 8N

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67flh

01-29-2008 09:27:27




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I am getting ready to buy my first Ford 8N, am going to look at a 51 that has 2200 original hours on it. Would that be considered low hours? I guess the paint is rough but the guy says the tractor runs fine. I just need a tractor to blade my lane so it will get very little use. What should I be looking for in particular in any tractor I might purchase? Also I see the prices running from 2000 on up would any good tractor be worth at least 2500?

Thanks! Brad in Eastern iowa

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LEH

01-30-2008 05:25:07




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to 67flh, 01-29-2008 09:27:27  
Brad, About a year ago I bought an 8N to take some of the load off Dad's 2N so that it could retire. I pushed the buy it now button on e-bay on what looked like a nice early 47 8N. When I went to pick it up, I sat on the most worn out tractor I had seen in a long time. The guy got mad when I started pointing out what was wrong with it. I was lucky that he had 2 tractors on e-bay, and he agreed to let me have the other one. Turned out it was a decent old 8N needing minor repairs for $2,000.

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Dan in CO

01-29-2008 19:04:05




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to 67flh, 01-29-2008 09:27:27  
This is a post I made last fall confessing my errors on my N purchase. I thought you might Njoy reading:

Confessions of an “N” newbie

First a little background;

When I was a Teenager in the 1960’s, My Dad had a 1941 9N on our hobby Farm in Wisconsin. The farm and all of the equipment was sold off when Dad passed in the early 90’s a couple of years after I had moved to Colorado. My Son & I remember the 9N as a sturdy worker and had a lot of fun putting it through its paces hauling firewood & plowing snow. Dad & I did most of the maintenance, but when it came to any heavy work such as new sleeves & rings or anything else that required splitting the tractor, we took it to an old guy named Milt with a one bay shed who would do it for us so I never thought that doing any of the internal work on the tractor should be done by an owner without the proper tools, jacks and lifts.
Now to the present;

In March of 2007, just after I retired, we moved from a tract home in Parker, Colorado (2 stories and a postage stamp yard, you know, the kind where when you want to walk between your house and the neighbor’s, you have to turn sideways)? We moved to a single level house in Castle Rock, Colorado on 6 acres for our retirement home. By mid-Summer, we decided to get a tractor, brush hog, and back blade. The Kubota’s, JD’s etc. were way outside the budget & besides, I remembered the N as being truly a workhorse & fun as well. Since I have restored old cars before (my 1953 MG TD) I thought it would be fun to work on an “N” again.

The one we looked at first was listed on Craigslist, saying it was a 1947 2N (my birth year) with a back blade for $2,450. When I went to see it, the guy seemed really honest. When I asked him how the brakes were, he replied, “Oh, they don’t work at all”. It turned out that they only needed to be adjusted. I bought the tractor & he agreed to deliver it to my new home if I paid full price, which I did. Once I got it home & really looked carefully, I found that it had a few “issues”:

· Gas tank about 1/3 full of “rusticles”

· Fuel shut off inoperable & missing handle

· Gas line plugged nearly shut with rust

· Carburetor about ˝ full of crud. Causing it to run way too rich

· Front tires cracked & leaking air

· Right front wheel rusted out around air valve

· Starter safety switch by passed with a starter on the dash (very unsafe) The starter button had been cut short and the washer that engaged the rod to activate the starter switch was broken off

· Starter switch not working

· Hydraulics dropping pretty fast when clutch pushed in

· Lots of oil leaks like around the governor rods

· Manifold rusted so badly around # 4 exhaust port that the block & head were black (Manifold had to be replaced) and rust pits fairly deep in the block

· Battery held in place with a bungee cord

· All of the wiring (including the plug wires) with many bare spots

· Right side adjustable lift arm was a “farmerized” concoction and needed to be replaced

· PTO shaft hemorrhaging oil

· No lights at all

· Steering wheel duct taped & rusted through where the spokes meet the outer wheel

· Points, condenser, distributor cap and rotor all looked original

· Plugs were as black as any I have ever seen

· No thermostat at all

· Water passages in the block so full of crud I think I only got about 1 ˝ gal out when I drained the cooling system.

Most of these “issues” have now been corrected with the expenditure of a lot of time (fun time with my son) and $ for parts. I was able to find a used starter button from John Smith. The rest of the parts were aftermarket purchased mostly from YT. I am afraid to add it all up, but I would guess that I have around $5,000 in the beast now, including the purchase price and repair bills.

The confession Part;

Here are the mistakes I have made:

· Should have kept looking or offered a lot less for the thing in the first place, although I have not seen any in our area for less, but I could have found one in better shape. It looked a lot like my Dad’s 9N and it was born the same year as I was. Emotion had no place in this decision.

· Should have had a better idea of what the cost of replacing & repairing all of the problems I found & should have found before I bought it. (There have been a number of lists posted here that are a great checklist of things to look for when surveying an “N”)

· Should have done more research on the “N” forum before I even started looking at N’s (this would have given me a checklist and warning of what I might find)

Now the really big mistake;

When I realized that the hydraulics would not hold an implement up once the clutch was in, I thought that the repair would be one of those that Dad would have sent to Milt (the guy who had all of the lifts etc.) to open the tractor up and really get into the guts, so I had a local JD dealer pick it up and gave them the job of fixing the lift problem and replacing the tires. Well, $1,100 and a month later they called to say it was done & delivered it the next day. When I got it home, the lift was no different; it starts to drop as soon as you push in the clutch with an implement on it. (I sent the tractor to them without an implement, but they said they had plenty to test it with). My guess is that they never tested it with any weight on the lift. By this time, I was educated on what to look for through the inspection plate on the right side. Sure enough, there was a lot of leakage coming down from the cylinder the dealer said they had rebuilt with a new piston and o-ring. When I called the dealer on the repair work they claimed they did, they said the old piston had a hole in it. Well if it did, I wonder what poked the hole? Maybe the culprit is still in there? The dealer agreed to re-do the work and came back to pick it up last week. So now I sit here at the computer with too much time on my hands wishing I had my “N” back so I could get on with the repairs that I know still need doing. Dam it, I wish I had done the cylinder rebuild myself. I could have saved a lot of money & had a lot of fun doing it!

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Tiny-t

01-29-2008 09:46:46




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to 67flh, 01-29-2008 09:27:27  
Brad, welcome, I bought an 8n, needed some work (probably gonna have $300 in misc. parts, plus I"m repainting it) Any way, I got the tractor, like new blade, like new brush hog, for $1500. I"d looked and searched for about 6 months to finally find a good deal. Not to worry if you need any parts, they"re all availiable. Also this is the place to come for help and advice, these guys are great!!



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Tom N MS

01-29-2008 17:10:23




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to Tiny-t, 01-29-2008 09:46:46  
And your conscience didn't bother you? You should go back and give them some more money...



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Tiny-t

01-29-2008 17:57:20




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to Tom N MS, 01-29-2008 17:10:23  
Had it on E-bay, while asking ?'s found out he was 3 minutes away. Just needed room in the barn.Even got an over run clutch, top link, plus he had just put a new 6 volt in,selenoid, complete tune up, gas tank sealed,rebuilt carb, etc. Right place, right time for sure.



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Tom N MS

01-29-2008 18:45:21




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to Tiny-t, 01-29-2008 17:57:20  
Sounds like you got a really good deal. I paid only $500 for mine and drove it home 10 miles. Needed lots of things done but could have used it like it was.



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Colin King

01-29-2008 09:46:17




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to 67flh, 01-29-2008 09:27:27  
Hi Brad,

Yup, 2200 hours is really quite low, if that meter is correct.

Since you're in Iowa and will be looking at the tractor in the cold, make sure that you get the engine the differential nice and warmed up. Run it for at least a good half hour and then try to give it a work out if you can. My 8N doesn't smoke until the engine is really hot and under load ... which you wouldn't notice if you did just a quick spin around the block.

You also want to test that 3 point lift. Is it being sold with a blade? See how well the 3 point handles weight, and how long it'll hold an implement up. The pumps chatter quite a bit, so if you hear some noise that's ok.

$2500 seems good for a good runner.

Here's a link describing some things you should look for in more detail.

Good luck!
Colin, MN

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Colin King

01-29-2008 09:47:11




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to Colin King, 01-29-2008 09:46:17  
guess everybody beat me to it.

:-)



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Den N Ms

01-29-2008 09:44:41




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to 67flh, 01-29-2008 09:27:27  
A good info and buyers guide here http://home.att.net/~jmsmith45/qa.htm



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Bruce (VA)

01-29-2008 09:41:41




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 Re: First Ford 8N in reply to 67flh, 01-29-2008 09:27:27  
I've bought two N's using John Smith's checklist (click on the link below); it saved me from buying three or four others! The only thing I have to add to John's excellent suggestions are:

1. Take a jack; jack up the front end & check it out just like you would a car for slop in the bearings, tie rods, etc. Then, do the same w/ the rear tires; make sure they do not wobble.

2. Take a compression gauge. You can pull all 4 plugs & do it correctly, or roll the dice & do one cylinder.

3. Take a meter in case the ammeter on the tractor is busted; you can see if the charging system is working.

4. Get back home & access an on-line parts catalog or take a paper copy w/ you. Figure out what it is going to cost you to get it running (or looking) the way you want it. If you think it's bad.....it is! Price it accordingly & consider those costs in your offer. For example, I knew the front wheel bearings were shot in my 1950 sidemount and that it needed to be rewired even though it started & ran fine. I figured the governor needed a rebuild because of the lack of low speed throttle response. When I made the previous owner an offer, I explained to him the basis behind my offer. He was agreeable.....but only to splitting the difference between his asking price & my offer! Which is what buying & selling is all about.

Good luck!

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Bruce (VA)

01-29-2008 09:43:21




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 The other link.......... in reply to Bruce (VA), 01-29-2008 09:41:41  
This is the other link that didn't work in the above post:



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