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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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OT Scout problem

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Jimmyjack

01-29-2008 13:10:43




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My neighbor has a 1971 scout snowplow with a 6 cylinder Rambler engine in it. It runs great over the road, but when you plow, going slow back and forth it fouls plugs and runs poorly. We changed plugs, new wires, rebuilt carb, changed carb, checked timing, and did everything else we could think of, including hotter plugs. No help. Does anyone have any ideas where to look? Im perplexed.




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gahorN

01-30-2008 03:47:49




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 Re: Thanks Dunk! in reply to Bruce (VA), 01-29-2008 13:10:43  
Does this meen we'll hafta lurn to speak FRANCH?



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jon

01-29-2008 15:10:37




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 Re: OT Scout problem in reply to Jimmyjack, 01-29-2008 13:10:43  
I had a 74 6 cyl that gave trouble with moisture getting in the distributor. Never could seal it out. Don't remember if it worked better/worse at higher speeds but it gave me a fit while playing on logging roads with a lot of mudholes.



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Paul in MN

01-29-2008 15:06:28




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 Re: OT Scout problem in reply to Jimmyjack, 01-29-2008 13:10:43  
I had a number of IH vehicles of that era, and used them in a snowplowing business. But I did not have any Scouts, nor any 6 cylinder Rambler engines. So I'll just take a few guesses based on mechanical experience from that time period.

I would look carefully at the choke plate in the carb. When you are moving slowly, like plowing, does the choke plate close? The chokes of that time used a combination of methods to control them. They usually had a vacuum line that would allow the choke to close when the vacuum is low, so as to enrich the mixture to allow cold drivability. I remember that there were different places that these carbs would pull vacuum from. One place was the venturi area, another was the intake manifold area just below the carb bottom. I don't know which carb you have and which vacuum connection should be made. The choke plate was opened by a bimetal spiral spring that would expand when it got hot. Some of these used a steel vacuum line (about the size of steel brake line, but short) to go to a little sheet metal "stove" on the exhaust manifold. It would pull hot air into the spring area and the choke would open. The next newer method of choke control was the use of an electric heating coil close up to the bimetal spring. So as the vehicle ran the electrically created heat would open the choke. But if the Scout runs OK at normal driving speed, I think the choke heater system is working OK. Normal driving speed and high idle speed will create high vacuum and the choke plate should remain full open. Low speed and lugging to pull or push means low vacuum and the choke plate may be closing giving too rich a mixture on a warm engine.

Another possibility is the vacuum advance on the distributor. Some were to be hooked up to venturi vacuum, and the others were to be hooked up to the intake manifold. If this is incorrect, your dist may be giving you a retarded timing condition at low speed and thus low vacuum and that can lead to plug fouling and poor power.

First, I would follow up on the other respondents suggestions, as they are good, but if their suggestions do not solve the problem, I would try to find out how the choke is acting and confirm the correct place that the vacuum advance draws from. While you are there, confirm that a vacuum created by your mouth (sucking) will in fact move the distributor advance plate (where the points are screwed to).

Good luck!

Paul in MN

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Dunk

01-29-2008 15:31:26




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 Paul in MN in reply to Paul in MN, 01-29-2008 15:06:28  
Paul in MN

That is an awesome post!!

Made me remember a lot of things, that I USED to know well!!



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Paul in MN

01-29-2008 18:23:51




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 Thanks Dunk! in reply to Dunk, 01-29-2008 15:31:26  
When I began writing this, it kind of dawned on me that a lot of these younger guys on this board only grew up in the fuel injected gas engine era where there were no carburators and certainly no chokes with some fancy vacuum control circuit. I had to reach back pretty far to dredge that stuff up.

Hey my first car was a 55 Plymouth flathead 6 that cost $75. If I was going to drive it, I sure had to learn to fix it first!

The wind is howl'N here with actual temp of -13 F. Send me some of that Georgia weather, even a little ole Mason jar of it would be a huge improvement. Them Cannucks up north are trying to freeze us clean outta here. Maybe then they will annex us....now, that's an interesting thought!

Take Care!

Paul in MN

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Dunk

01-29-2008 18:37:09




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 Re: Thanks Dunk! in reply to Paul in MN, 01-29-2008 18:23:51  
Lord, Have Mercy.

Stay warm, it is very comfortable here tonight, except for the 40mph winds outside.

My first vehicle was a '53 Ford Pickum up.

Flathead V-8, dual water pumps, and over sized seat covers, I customized, twin cigarette lighters.

I was driving her on the public roads when I was 13 years old.

Ahhh, the good Ole Daze.....



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Bob

01-29-2008 13:49:24




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 Re: OT Scout problem in reply to Jimmyjack, 01-29-2008 13:10:43  
Has it got a good thermostat, and a "winter front" (cardboard) in front of the radiator do the engine gets fully warmed up?

IIRC, it would have a Holley carburetor, and, depending upon the type, could have a bad power valve, leaking excess gas into the mixture, making it run especially rich at idle and low speeds.

Does it smoke black, or smell of gas while idleing?



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