Randall..... ..What is your confidence level that your present coil is really and truely a 12 volt coil and not a mis-packaged or mis-labled 6 volt coil? 10.5 volts to the coil on a 12 volt coil should be right in the ol' ballpark BUT if it is a 6 or 8 volt coil (a lot of 12 volt system coils are really designed to run on 8 volts), the internal resistance will cause the points to draw more than they are designed for (5 amps max, 3 amps normal). Ohms Law sez: I=E/R, if ballast resistor = 0.5 ohms (typical) and battery voltage = 12.3 - 10.5 = 1.6 volts across the ballast resistor; doing the math 1.6 / 0.5 = 3.2 amps thru the ballast resistor and the coil and the points (its a series circuit), right in the ol' ballpark. BUT IF your engine is running when you took those measurements and your alternator was putting out max voltage of 14.7 volts for example; ballast resistor is still 0.5 ohms BUT voltage will be 14.7 - 10.5 = 4.2 volts across the ballast resistor; then doing the math: I = 4.2 / 0.5 = 8.4 AMPS....way to many amps thru the thru the ballast resistor and coil and points. This could be your problem, the alternator is outputting to many volts....you might get it checked out. As for your 6 volt condenser.....Most condensers are rated 100 to 200 volts, wheather used in 6 volt or 12 volt systems. Has to do with the back EMF of the coil. More technical stuff. Hope this helps..... .Dell
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