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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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'47 Ford 2N starting - what'd I do?

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Reid Fisher

03-01-2008 19:31:06




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Can't figure out why tractor won't crank (zippo) after doing the following related/unrelated stuff: * oil/filter change; grease all zerks * install new round voltage regulator * replace the busted loop/induction(?) ammeter with in-series two-stud ammeter * clean the terminal for the one wire going to the rear of the generator * remove/clean accessible wiring on the little panel in back of dash, but some nuts frozen -- is it possible that in doing this, I made/broke some electrical contact? Battery fairly new, 6.3V; and it cranked just fine before oil chg. -- did I hook up the voltage regulator backwards (just two wires right?) -- how exactly is the neutral safety switch wired in -- could it be in that circuit? -- what do I do with that crusted panel behind the dash anyway? Thank you!

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Reid Fisher

03-02-2008 22:02:10




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 Thx - Clean, bright contacts was answer in reply to Reid Fisher, 03-01-2008 19:31:06  
Thanks guys for the very clear suggestions and explanations. I started by cleaning all the connections in the starter circuit to bright metal, and bingo. I figure one of those connections must've just barely been good enough before the tweaking, and I nudged it into non-conducting mode.



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Danny in CO

03-01-2008 21:03:16




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 Re: '47 Ford 2N starting - what'd I do? in reply to Reid Fisher, 03-01-2008 19:31:06  
Reid,

The "little panel in back of dash" it the terminal block and it should have the ballast resistor on it, If you broke the ballastor you won't have current to the coil and no starting. The only thing you did that might affect starting was the terminal block. Try this: run a 12/14 gauge wire straight from the battery to the coil and see if it will start. If it does, then there is a broken circuit between the battery and the coil in your wiring. It could be bad switch, bad ballast resistor, dirty connection, etc. Don't run it more than a few minutes with the bypass wire and you will need to remove the wire to kill it.

Good luck,
Danny

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JMOR

03-01-2008 20:37:07




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 Re: '47 Ford 2N starting - what'd I do? in reply to adam 8n, 03-01-2008 19:31:06  

Reid Fisher said: (quoted from post at 23:31:06 03/01/08) Can't figure out why tractor won't crank (zippo) after doing the following related/unrelated stuff:
* oil/filter change; grease all zerks
* install new round voltage regulator
* replace the busted loop/induction(?) ammeter with in-series two-stud ammeter
* clean the terminal for the one wire going to the rear of the generator
* remove/clean accessible wiring on the little panel in back of dash, but some nuts frozen -- is it possible that in doing this, I made/broke some electrical contact? Battery fairly new, 6.3V; and it cranked just fine before oil chg.
-- did I hook up the voltage regulator backwards (just two wires right?)
-- how exactly is the neutral safety switch wired in -- could it be in that circuit?
-- what do I do with that crusted panel behind the dash anyway? Thank you!


What does crank mean to you? Starter will not rotate engine? OR Starter does rotate engine, but it will not start & run?

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Sean (TX)

03-01-2008 19:46:37




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 Re: '47 Ford 2N starting - what'd I do? in reply to lonestarjeff, 03-01-2008 19:31:06  

Reid Fisher said: (quoted from post at 22:31:06 03/01/08) Can't figure out why tractor won't crank (zippo) after doing the following related/unrelated stuff:
* oil/filter change; grease all zerks
* install new round voltage regulator
* replace the busted loop/induction(?) ammeter with in-series two-stud ammeter
* clean the terminal for the one wire going to the rear of the generator
* remove/clean accessible wiring on the little panel in back of dash, but some nuts frozen -- is it possible that in doing this, I made/broke some electrical contact? Battery fairly new, 6.3V; and it cranked just fine before oil chg.
-- did I hook up the voltage regulator backwards (just two wires right?)
-- how exactly is the neutral safety switch wired in -- could it be in that circuit?
-- what do I do with that crusted panel behind the dash anyway? Thank you!


Dont see how wiring the round can cut out wrong would not allow it to crank..

Neutral switch is not wired. Just a hole in a piece of metal that allows the start button to function.

Panel on the dash is terminal block /resistor

Check all the connections...Clean bright and tight...Including the starter to block mating surface..

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