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Keep adding ATF or MMO in each cylinder for at least a week or so. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Wait at least 2 or 3 days before you do anything, then try & hand crank the engine, or a pry bar on the flywheel or rocking the rear tires. (w/o spark plugs) If it does not turn by hand, repeat everything you just did, ie, more MMO or ATF. Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Flush the gas tank w/ MMO. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid handy. Check every orifice (tail pipe, breather, etc) for rodent nests. Do not order any parts for a rebuild until you get inside of the engine. It might need bearings & you need to mic the crank for that. Same w/ valves; it might not need them. I prefer the soft head gasket per the recommendation of a factory trained Ford tractor mechanic is older than me! Once you get it running, just let it idle for a 1/2 hour or so. Good luck & check back!
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