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Barn Treasure - Next installment...

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nondem

03-25-2008 17:17:46




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I went ahead and pulled the head while I'm waiting for the MMO/ATF to soak. I'm glad I did... I confirmed there are no obvious cracks in the block/head, even in the "triangle" between the valves and piston where I have read it's common on flatheads due to the head differential.

The cylinder bores look ok besides the fact that it's seized.

Like most good news - things aren't as they seemed...

If you'll eyeball the gallery link, you'll notice that both valves on the #2 cylinder are open !!!

I can't think of a moment during the 4 cycles that both valves would be open...So It looks like I'll at least be needing some valve train parts. The seats and all look good. Also the the intake valves actually say "Ford" on them.

Any advice? Condolences? Tips or thoughts?

http://www.linearrow.com/main/headgal

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Ultradog MN

03-25-2008 18:19:11




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 Re: Barn Treasure - Next installment... in reply to nondem, 03-25-2008 17:17:46  
Wait a minute!
At the top of the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve would be closing as the intake valve opened for the intake stroke. So yes there is a point that they would both be open for a few degrees of the crank. I say your valve train is normal and requires no condolences.
If you ever decide to weld anything on your flywheel never do it without also attaching your ground to the ring gear or flywheel. Attaching the ground to any other place on your tractor will cause an arc between a bearing and a journal
causing damage to both.
I think those bores and valves look runable. The test will be when it finally breaks loose, did it leave rust grooves where the rings met the cylinder walls. Personally I would continue to soak it. Can you see anything of the end gap on the top ring?
Blowing the oil out and checking the end gap would tell you much about the condition of those bores.
Good luck

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nondem

03-25-2008 17:58:03




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 Re: Barn Treasure - Next installment... in reply to Gary,kansas, 03-25-2008 17:17:46  
Thanks to both of you guys for at least lifting my spirits :)

I'll do both items...I'm not buying any gaskets until I know if I'm going to need a full or partial overhaul kit.

Oh, and I meant "heat differential" not "head differential" in the original post. :)



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GB in MT.

03-25-2008 17:41:22




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 Re: Barn Treasure - Next installment... in reply to nondem, 03-25-2008 17:17:46  


nondem;

Try this on yer stuck valves. As Sean says I used this system on my 2N and it works good if you follow the instructions. I made this up, so if ya don't get results, I'll be very surprised.

Good luck, with yer "N"

third party image

Have fun!!!!

Gary :)

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Sean (TX)

03-25-2008 17:32:21




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 Re: Barn Treasure - Next installment... in reply to Dunk, 03-25-2008 17:17:46  
Try the white vinager treatment in the cylinders. I tried to rock my rear wheels with the head off and couldnt get the engine to turn over. I removed the starter and cranked it over with a pry bar on the ring gear....was not stuck or was not stuck anymore? If I remember right you ring gear was spinning on the flywheel. Have a torch? I would spot weld it... Then try to use a pry bar again on the ring gear...As far as your valves go one or more is sticking. Remove the valve covers and Spray with PB or MMO and scrub the valves with a tooth brush...Maybe Gary will chime in he has a good method for unsticking valves... Worked for him...

Those cylinder dont look bad...It may free up?

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