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Alan..... ..The double nut scheme uses the inner nut to tighten the hub onto the axle. It has a 6 segment extension thats threaded all the way out to the end of the axle for more gripping power. Then the outer nut clamps down onto the inner nut segments like a drill chuck. Those are the segments you see between the inner and outer nuts. The original 8N rear axle nut had a wire snap ring scheme that was supposed to lock the axle nut onto the axle, truth is, it wasn't too successful, often times breaking and allowing the axle nut to loose tension and causeing wheel wobble and wearing the hub splines, necessitating both hub and axle replacement to get rid of the wobble. There are an awful lot of 8N's out there with wheel wobble and it is not affecting their operation, I wouldn't worry too much about a little wobble, but if it weaves like a drunken snake, I'd probably seriously consider an axle/hub replacement. When you go to honk down 450 ft/lbs on the splined double axle nut, you'll want the outer nut fairly tight so the splined extensions really grip the axle threads, but not so tight that you can not move the inner nut. My 1-7/8 X 3/4 drive socket gripped both inner and outer nuts together with a 4 ft cheater bar, I weigh 200# and I almost supported my weight on it (100# X 4' = 400 ft/lbs). Then I honked down on the outer nut only at 400+ ft/lbs. Worked for me. Yes, you are going in the right direction, get your seals/leaks fixed. Have the I&T FO-4 repair manual handy, its got good info and pixs. Be sure to "pack" your wheel bearings with good axle greese. I used a "needle" adaptor on my greese gun. Don't try to take your bearing off your axle, its a "press fit". When it comes time to set your bearing clearances with shims/gaskets, remember: too loose is better than too tight, but just right is bestest of all. Hope this helps..... ..... .Dell
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