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Now ya got me doin it...

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Russ Selwood

06-16-1999 16:01:48

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From what I've seen on this board ... This is the place to visit when you need a helping hand. So ... There she sits .. my new 50 year old, Serial # 8N186625 , the oil dripping from the stud at the lower left of the differential housing that is the attachment point for one arm of the three point hitch. If I take the strain off of the stud by holding up the lift "arm" I can spin the stud round and even get a slight wobble and watch in horror as the oil seeps past.
Can one of you wizards please explain the ins and outs of these stud attachment points and a possible fix. I've ordered the manuals per the board advise and have started printing out everthing in sight here! It's my 1st tractor!!
Thanks.

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Phil R (IL)

06-17-1999 07:50:40

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Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to Russ Selwood, 06-16-1999 16:01:48

I had the same problem with an 8N on the right side, really wallered out hole. Rather than trying to have it welded, I was lucky enuf to find another rear axle housing at a tractor "bone yard" for $40. That fixed the problem well. Machine shop cost to fix it was way more than $40!!! Most around here thought the stress on the link pin would be too much for JB weld over the long term. Good luck and have fun, This board is great..P

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Russ

06-17-1999 09:39:12

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Re: Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to Phil R (IL), 06-17-1999 07:50:40

Thanks Phil! Sure wish I lived within a 100 miles of a bone yard! But .. I'll make a couple of "just in case" calls to see if one exists locally, if not I'm gonna go with the JB weld stuff as the wallering is very slight an may hold up well enuff for my few acres (huge to me ... small to those of you in the mid west and west) ;^)

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David

06-17-1999 04:38:40

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Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to Russ Selwood, 06-16-1999 16:01:48

My 9N was leaking from the same little bolt. After discovering Ford wanted 59$ apiece for this bolt I squirted silicone sealant on the shaft and the taper and stuck the bolt. I torqued it down and allowed 24hrs before filling the tranny/diff with fluid. Approx 25 hrs of mowing later and it still hasn't leaked. One note: I heard the reason they leak is the bolt gets "stretched" when heavy implements slam from side to side.

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Russ

06-17-1999 09:55:00

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Re: Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to David, 06-17-1999 04:38:40

Hi David, Thanks for your response! I'm going to call around first to see if I can find a axle housing (trumpet) then failing that I think I will try the JB Weld as there is very slight wallering. Actually it may tighten up without the jb weld. I have shy-ed away abit from my use of silicone after hearing a few horror stories of the stuff clogging up oil passages etc., in motorcycle engines and etc. As I am totally unfamiliar with what happens in the stern of the tractor re hydraulics system and all I'm a bit leary of trying the silicone.
Here's hoping you don't get to respond with an I told ya so! Glad to hear however that it is working out for you. Best of luck! Happy mowing!
The folks on this board are the greatest!

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Dell (WA)

06-16-1999 16:33:02

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Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to Russ Selwood, 06-16-1999 16:01:48

Russ..... Its not as bad as you think...lots of ol' N's leak out their lower lift arm attach points. Most of them don't pee. (grin)

The 8N lower lift pin is tapered and held inside the axle trumpet by a castelated nut and cotter key. Why they get loose, I have no idea because they are torqued 150 ft/lbs but sometimes the taper is not bottomed out or centered before the nut is honked down.

The longer you delay proper repair the more likely the cast iron tapered hole is likely to become "wallered out" and then you will never get it to seal....except.....there have been many reports of successfully sealing using "J-B Liquid Weld" and honking down while the weld is still liquid and then letting it cure for a day or so.

Most find it to their advantage to replace all the axle seals while you have the axle trumpet removed to get to the castelated nut. As one board member used to say: "Its just bull work". I think the hardeds part will probably be "shimming" the axle for proper clearance. The I&T FO-4 repair manual has a better description than I can explain. If anything is unclear, please re-post describing your concerns.

I'm pleased you took this opportunity to seek a second opinion. My opinion and $1 will get you a cup of coffee (grin).

Good Luck..... ..Dell

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Russ

06-16-1999 17:24:31

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Re: Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to Dell (WA), 06-16-1999 16:33:02

Wow this is great! thanks for the info and advise Dell! I'm gonna go have that coffee and then read about shimming axles .. adding brakes .. a new tire .. etc... Hmmm Wonder why the left side took such a beating?? Too many right hand turns? I already read here about turning hard to the right! What a board!! Thanks a heap Oops. came back and had been booted offline. Sooo further I see that I have about 2/32" of tapered stud left outside diff. housing but think for sure there is some "wallering". Question..
know if anyone has remachined tapered hole a few thou. and seated stud a bit deeper or if oversize studs are available? I'm planning on taking your route as it sounds the most expedient and likely cheaper .... just wondering about possibilities.
again thanks..

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Dell (WA)

06-16-1999 21:55:03

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Re: Re: Re: Now ya got me doin it... in reply to Russ, 06-16-1999 17:24:31

Russ..... ...if you knew what the "taper" was, a good machine shop would have a reamer ground by a speciality tool shop to the N-Tractor's taper specifications. The machine shop would then hog down the axle trumpet on a milling machine table and then plunge the tapered reamer, grinding the "wallered out" hole to like new. I can assure you the cost of a specially ground reamer to the required taper for a 1 shot job would be prohibitly expensive.

Go with the "J-B Weld".

And have another cup of coffee on my opinion (grin)..... ....Dell

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