12v conversion question

1) Is the ballast resistor supposed to get so hot? It smokes a few seconds after the key is engaged.

2) Although I haven't started it yet, I have engaged the starter - a lot of new power there. The solenoid kicks out very quickly (not turning the starter). Is this an indication of a bad solenoid or something else related to the conversion?

Thanks very much for any help or advise.

1) is 12 volt to 6 volt "ballast resistor too hot?" Typical 6 volt side mount ignition system coil demands 3 amps power at 6 volts. This is simple as pie. Power = amps times voltage.... power = 3 x 6 = 18 watts. Coil and resistor are in series just like flashlight batterys. Current in one is same as current in other. What we really don't know at this time is: What is voltage at the coil with the points closed. Should be close to 6 volts. Get a cheepie "multi-mart" voltmeter and read it. If you get 12 volt battery voltage, turn your engine by hand with sparkplugs out (to make it eazy to turn) until you get the ignition points to close. If it never gets to about 6 volts then recheck your wiring. 12 volts on the ignition coil will fry both your coil and your points.

2) I'm not quite certain what you are trying to tell me. Do you mean the starter bendix never engages the flywheel? If this is the case, quick fix.....Remove starter, clean the bendix screw. The bendix screw is designed to run "clean".

The bendix screw is "velocity" sensitive and any oil/greese/gum/varnish will slow down the screw extension action while allowing the starter motor to build up rotation speed which is even faster with 12 volts to encourage it. Hope this helps..... ...Dell

Thanks for the follow-up. I've checked wiring in accordance with illustration, but will measure voltage at the coil to ensure 6v. The harness contained bright new red wires - no red and white wire. However, the illustration was coded such that it wasn't hard to tell which wire went where. So assuming wiring is correct and there's 6v at the coil, I guess this means the resistor is doing its job and the fact that it's getting so hot is okay? It has a ceramic enclosure so I assume it's designed for heat. If it turns out there's 12v at the coil, I'll go over the wiring again.

Thanks for the tip on the Bendix screw . . . and yes it's not engaging the flywheel.

I measured voltage at the coil yesterday. It was 4.5 volts. Resistor stopped smoking - probably just buring off some coating. Seems okay, but is hot to touch. Pulled out the starter. Didn't know what to expect, but bendix was very dirty. Was about to put it back in, but noticed a loose fitting "flange" on the end of the shaft. It looks like there should have been a key to hold into place somewhere. Wish I had a drawing or a new starter to look at. I'll try to figure it out. Thanks for your assitance.

Your 12 to 6 volt dropping resistor is too many ohms (actually, too many fractions of an ohm). If your tractor "misses under heavy load", you got "low sparkies" and will have to figgure out how to get more volts at the coil.

Several ways: 1) different value 12 volt dropping resistor 2) there is always the possibility that your ignition switch contacts are "gunked-up" and are only supplying 10 volts or so to the dropping resistor and thus low volts to your ignition coil. Check with a jumper wire around your ignition key switch contacts, if coil volts go up, you know the drill, replace the ignition switch.

There should be a molded + and - on the top of the ignition coil, be certain that coil + is connected to battery +, otherwize you can loose up to 25% of of your sparkies. Coil - goes to battery - (ground) through the points.

Personally, I like to use a real 12 volt (no ballast resistor) coil, some times called hot-rod coils. Actually, some of the later model Ford 12 volt tractor coils look just like an original 8N coil if you are concerned about "originality" and who cares if you have already changed to an alternator. (grin) A good parts "person" should be able to help you out.

Watch out there are 12 volt system coils that are designed to run on 9 volts with a "ballast resistor" that drops the 12 volts to 9 volt for regular running but by-passes the ballast resistor during starting, thus putting 12 volts on a 9 volt coil for eazier starting.

As I recommended, get the new "improved" starter drive. A good parts "person" should beable to help you get the right starter drive. I don't know the "official" part number and the catalogs use their own order numbers anyway.

Hope this helps..... ..Dell