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9N Questions

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ODIE

08-19-1999 09:46:28




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I have a coule of questions about troubles I am having with my 9N.

1. The power take off will "pop out" when a strain is out on it (like trying to cut 10" grass) with a brush hog. I have owned the tractor for 7 years and this always happened every now and then, but now it has gotten so bad I can't even mow. Any ideas as to what to start looking at?

2. I have almost no power under a load. The tractor will idle fine and respond to throttle increases without missing a beat, but again, when mowing, it will bog down and die (assuming I can keep the PTO engaged). I had to rewire the entire tractor earlier this year, and it did run fine after that....for a while. By reading this page I know I need to check the point gap, but I have questions about the carburetor. The IT manual I have just tells that the tractor was made with 1 of a couple of types of carbs and what the float height should be, but nothing else. I'm not even sure what the 2 adjustments are for (I did manage to figure out the idle adjust). I assume the small screw is an air/fuel mixture, but the large screw ? (the one toward the front of the tractor ?) I have disassembled and cleaned all the jets, etc, but it seems that neither adjustment makes any difference. Can someone enlighten me?

Thanks

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Tommy(MO)

08-19-1999 11:16:46




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 Re: 9N Questions in reply to ODIE, 08-19-1999 09:46:28  
Question #1.) I don't have a clue. I have yet to tear in to anything on my N that's rearward of the dash. I'm sure it's just a matter time though!

Question #2.) That larger screw is the adjustment for the power jet. The book says to initially start by screwing it all the way in and backing it out 1 1/4 turns. The carb used on the 9/2Ns was the STX33. (at least all I've seen) The float should be initially set with a 1/4" gap between it and the flat surface of the carb when the carb is turned upside down. As for the low power problem, there are a few things to check. To function properly, the N needs the proper mixture of air/fuel to enter the combustion chamber and a source of ignition at the proper time. I would check compression, set the gap on the points and verify the timing advance cam weights and springs in the bottom of the distributor are clean and frre to actuate. The governor is responsible for adjusting the throttle as the tractor comes under load and needs more fuel. I would think this also could be a source of your problem.

I would be curious to know if the tractor will run good without a load. Can you put it in gear and putt arount the yard/field and get up to speed without a problem? The fact it will start and idle would make me think it's not points, but more likely the governor or a question of timing advance. Hopefully some of the "more experienced" on this board will jump in with possible solutions.

Later.....Tommy

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odie

08-19-1999 13:17:27




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 Re: Re: 9N Questions in reply to Tommy(MO), 08-19-1999 11:16:46  
Tommy,

Thanks for the reply. The tractor will run "full speed" in third gear with no trouble. I will be sure and check the springs in the distributor when I take it off to check the points gap.



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Tommy(MO)

08-19-1999 15:09:23




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 Re: Re: Re: 9N Questions in reply to odie, 08-19-1999 13:17:27  
Not sure how familiar you are with these front mount distributors. If this is more info than needed, than just disregard. The cam weights and springs are located in the bottom of the distributoe, below the timing plate where the points are attached. To get to them, you will have to remove the screw that dolds the timing plate (also used to adjust static timing) and the large spring clip inside the distributor body. The timing plate will then lift off the shaft. This is a good time to inspect the bushings. they tend to wear out after years of use and are cheap to replace. Make sure the cam weights swing out freely and the whole area is clean in there. Be sure to reference the I&T manual when reassembling. You'll need to set the static timing, and the manual does a better job than I could ever dream of. Hopefully one of the "more knowledgables" will have some additional comments tonight or in the morning. A variety of opinions is always welcome.

Something else to think about. I would try running the tractor with the PTO engaged but no implement attached. If good power doing this, I doubt you have an internal PTO problem. If this is fine, than I would turn off the tractor and try rotating the drive link to the bushhog by hand, checking for binding or resistance. I've heard where some of these have a drive shaft that is too long and causes binding when attached to the PTO output shaft. It's also possible that something got caught underneath the hog and/or got wound around the shaft for the blades. I know these seem like simple checks, but they're easily overlooked. Remember, this isn't rocket science. We'll get her figured out eventually.

Later..... .Tom

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ODIE(OK)

08-20-1999 15:55:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 9N Questions in reply to Tommy(MO), 08-19-1999 15:09:23  
Tommy,

Thanks for the info. I have had the distributor off more times than I care to remember, but never looked at the weights/springs. When I first bought the tractor 7/8 years ago, the person had used an automotive coil on it. Wasn't long until the points burned out, so I did the 12 volt mod the correct way, using the 6 volt coil and resistor, replaced the points, ect. Has run great since then. With my busy schedule (Full time job, 8 hours of tech school a week, and 2 full time kids 5 and 1.5) I haven't had a chance to look at much. I did walk past and give the brushog a spin and it seemed to turn as freely as ever. I do have one of the "slip clutches, so I wasn't turning anything in the gearbox. Hopefully I will get a chance to "play" with it Monday (my day off). I will post something then. Thanks again.

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