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A couple of novice questions about a ’53 Ford 8N.

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Paul

08-27-1999 08:47:57




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Where is the filler location for the hydraulic oil? Do you check and/or drain it with the 3 pt. lift up or down? When I helped my uncle get this tractor running after 5 years of sitting, the hydraulics worked fine. Now, after sitting another 3 months, it doesn’t work at all. The hydraulic oil looks foamy or milky, I guess that’s a sign that water has been introduced somehow. Could something have rusted up in that time? Does the fact that it’s milky mean it’s lost most of its’ hydraulic value? Thanks.

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Curt on poverty knob

08-27-1999 19:44:34




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 Re: A couple of novice questions about a ’53 Ford 8N. in reply to Paul, 08-27-1999 08:47:57  
If oil is dtill milky looking, and it probably will be unless you really flush it good, go to your local NAPA store and get 2 cans of SeaFoam transmission tune up and pour it in, then work it for a while, the oil will clear up. I did this last week before I went to mow my pasture with a sickle mower and it really worked.
Good luck
Curt



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EricG.NH

08-27-1999 09:39:01




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 Re: A couple of novice questions about a ?53 Ford 8N. in reply to Paul, 08-27-1999 08:47:57  
The tranny, hydraulic, and differential sumps, are all connected through holes in the cases. Fill/drain one, you fill/drain them all. There are three drain plugs for each section, two biggies and on smallie, underneath. One fill, by the shift. Lift up or down doesn't matter much, less than one pint out of 5 gallons.
Foamy/milky is water. Couple possible sources. Condensation. Leak. Likely leak is the rubber boot that sits over the shifter, if it's missing. Water can definately cause grief, big and small. Something could definately be rusted. Something could also be broke. Don't know where you live, but water freezes pretty solid up here in NH, in the winter. So does any water in the tractor. Ice expands, things crack! I wouldn't worry about the value of the oil. Change it! As a matter of fact, if the tractor's been sitting that long, change ALL the fluids. After that, standard hydraulics debug starts by openning the right side inspection cover, adn operating the lift. Watch the action of the control rod and look for oil leaks dripping from above, where the piston and cylinder are, and below in the oil behind the pump look for disturbance in the oil. Leaks above, cylinder, piston. Disturbance below, pump leak. Recommended procedure is to drain off some of the hydraulic oil to just expose the safety relief valve on the pump. Then operate the lift again and see if it leaks. Cruise the archive for more info and buy a manual if you haven't yet.
Eric

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Oops!

08-27-1999 09:43:08




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 Re: Re: A couple of novice questions about a ?53 Ford 8N. in reply to EricG.NH, 08-27-1999 09:39:01  
Llamas is right. My response is for the 8N possiblity.
Eric



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llamas

08-27-1999 09:38:24




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 Re: A couple of novice questions about a ’53 Ford 8N. in reply to Paul, 08-27-1999 08:47:57  
You'll need to clarify here.

If it's a '53, it's not an 8N.

If it has a flathead motor, it's an 8N.

If it has an OHV motor, it's a Jubilee/NAA.

Post back what's what and we'll address your issues.

llater,

llamas



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Paul

08-27-1999 09:47:33




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 Re: Re: A couple of novice questions about a ’53 Ford 8N. in reply to llamas, 08-27-1999 09:38:24  
It's a flathead 8N, guess I had the year wrong. It's got to be a late one, though as it has the distributor at an angle, or am I wrong on this? I posted before I'd even looked back at earlier posts, so it looks like the rearend and hydraulics use common fluid, at least on earlier 9Ns. I'd already bought a bunch of hydraulic oil, guess I won't be able to use that, as it apparently needs 80-90W. Clear me up on all of this if you can. Thanks.

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llamas

08-27-1999 12:25:25




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 Re: Re: Re: A couple of novice questions about a ’53 Ford 8N. in reply to Paul, 08-27-1999 09:47:33  
OK, good.

First things first. Get the oil out of there. Get it warm first - an hour or two pulling a disc or backblade will work. Then drain it from all three drain plugs. You need to get water-contaminated oil out of there, for all the stated reasons. The question of what oil to use will still be a point of discussion a hundred years from now. You can use the 80/90 weight (thicker) or the 134D (thinner). You decide.

Filler for all cavities is the big plug in the transmission top cover. 5 US gallons is what it takes.

Hitch doesn't lift? First question - is the PTO engaged? Lever in the left-hand inspection cover, behind your foot. Depress main clutch before shifting. The PTO shaft drives the hydraulic pump. To ensure PTO shaft is turning, remove cover and observe.

If it still doesn't work, and it used to, chances are that something is jammed or broken in the control mechanism, or you have a massive leak somewhere. Post back if that's the case and we'll run through the diagnostic process.

llater,

llamas

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