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2N Restoration vs. Recoloration

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Alan

10-20-1999 17:55:10

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I have been playing with a 45 2N that was retired prematurely when a new tractor came along. Other than it sat for many years with leaking seals and some old gas, it is in pretty good shape. After a carb and dist. rebuild it readily came back to life. I started to do a recoloration before I came across this and other sites and would now like to do a restoration. Question. Are there any step by step manuals available or are the available service manuals adequate? I have to convince a church board that restoration is the way to go as opposed to recoloration. Thanks!!!!

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David(MN)

10-21-1999 08:56:04

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Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to Alan, 10-20-1999 17:55:10

my $0.02. I have a 8n '50 that I plan to fix up. The hood is "wrong" as are the tires (auto front turf rear". I'm not going to spend the $$$ to change them when they work for what I plan to do (mow lawn). I may even change out the dash to add a proof meter. I also plan to paint it. This will make any future oil leaks readily visible and may head off more serious probs. I will figure out what the correct paint colors are although this appears controversial. I realize all this is not "restoration" and I wouldn't claim it to be but it will make the tractor look nearly correct and keep it very functional..I don't plan to enter it in beauty pagents so I won't change her warts. Look at what your intention with it is and go from there..most of all N-joy your tractor they are great machines. David

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raytasch

10-21-1999 06:57:53

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Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to Alan, 10-20-1999 17:55:10

Sounds like the church board might have a fudiciary interest in the tractor. It is MHO that if the tractor is truely a good original anything you would do the the tractor less than CORRECT restoration work would devalue it. PLEASE don't let them talk you into changing color. fwiw, ray

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RICK

10-20-1999 19:26:30

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Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to Alan, 10-20-1999 17:55:10

You said it was retired prematurely, which may mean it's in good original condition. You have three choices, clean it up and leave it original, shoot it with a spray can and call it restored, spend a LOT of time and money and really restore it. IMHO choice number one is the best. If you go with number two, you'll futher the opinion that 8N's were originally orange and white and 9&2N's were light gray. If you pick number three and really mean RE$TORE you end up with a trailer queen you can't use for anything, cause when you do it's no longer the prize winner. Again IMHO

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Darryl (Mo)

10-20-1999 20:43:18

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Re: Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to RICK, 10-20-1999 19:26:30

Alan, I'll second what Rick says. I think I'd: 1) Check for proper fluid/lubricant levels. 2) Run it for several hours to check for oil consumption. 3) Run compression check. 4) Note any unusual sounds and track down/identify. 5) Look for oil in coolant and vice-versa. If previous 'once-over' items are satisfactory I'd change lubricants/fluids, hoses/thermostat, fan belt, deal with other obvious wearables, clean it up and use it!

Regards,
Darryl 8N 210077 'Wheezer'

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Alan

10-20-1999 20:54:59

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Re: Re: Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to Darryl (Mo), 10-20-1999 20:43:18

I appreciate your HO Rick and your 2nd Darryl but forgive my incompleteness first time around. The engine runs fine but hydraulics do not. I am new to old tractors so please forgive my ignorance. Do you think I should just replace the seals and see if the lift works(I want to use Old George the 2N to maintain the road here). About the paint, are you telling me this gray is no longer available? I would hate to do anything not original. This 2N has been on this particular piece of real estate since day one.

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TX'n

10-21-1999 21:57:24

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Re: Re: Re: Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to Alan, 10-20-1999 20:54:59

Alan- as one 2N guy to another ('44 2N to '45 2N) I would advise you to invest in a Ford Master Parts Catalog '39 thru '53 & an I&T Ford Shop Manual FO-4. The hydraulic glitch is a matter of getting dirty and sorting thru the problem, a piece of cake really. As for the color, old henry was a patriotic man, and when the war came on he painted all his N's battleship grey, a dark gray. The match is available today, just watch out for the overzealous auto paint guys- they will put a shine on your N like Henry never believed possible due to our acrylic based paints. You can still have a beautiful working tractor in keeping with the N tradition w/o making it a show piece. And if your church committee nixes your suggestions, offer to buy it and take it home for some TLC. Or better yet, auction it off to the folks on this board. I am sure the church coffers would absorb the funds somehow. But I would hope it goes home with you; sounds like you have found another family outside your own and the church, the N board folks. Welcome.

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Dunk

07-24-2008 07:42:26

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Re: 12 volt kit extra suggestions in reply to Pincheweddo, 07-23-2008 18:26:33

hammer_guy35 said: (quoted from post at 11:33:05 07/24/08) Dunk, thanks for the link to Gutting a can coil. At least now I know what the heck was there when I bought the tractor, everybody I talked to thought I was crazy when I said my tractor had 2 coils on it. It seems like buying a new square can 12v coil for $35 is much easier than doing all that gutting and work on the old coil..

It may appear that way, but there are some very good reasons to consider.

The original coils were designed for 6v positive ground.

That is why I run a 6v, positive ground, one wire, Chevy alternator that I had built for mine 20 something years ago.

I don't know if the 12 volt coils are designed for positive, or negative ground.

Then there is the resistor(s), you need the right amount of resistance on front mount coils, be it 6v, or 12v, to keep from overheating things.

You can buy round can coils that are designed for 12v, negative ground, no resistors.

Those are the reasons for gutting the square coils.

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Brian Bell

07-24-2008 12:57:20

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Re: compression test results in reply to weirdbeard, 07-24-2008 12:48:21

#4 is definitely weak. Ford recommends 90psi minimum. Have you tried to put some trans fluid in the cylinder to make sure it's rings aren't stuck?

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Dunk

07-23-2008 19:35:25

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Re: 12 volt kit extra suggestions in reply to Lance in Brenham, TX, 07-23-2008 18:26:33

hammer_guy said: (quoted from post at 23:27:51 07/23/08) Soundguy, I just purchased a complete 12V conversion kit for my front mount 9n and can not get it to run after putting everything back together. The original conversion had a round coil feeding the square can coil on top of the distributor. It seemed like a messed up way to install it and I can not find any wiring diagrams that show it done that way. At least it did make the tractor run. I have read almost every post on here and they have been very helpful but I still cant get the Tractor to start and I do have good spark. It was running perfect before the change except it started to loose power and miss real bad until I hot the coil with my hammer and it would run good again for awhile so I assumed my coil was bad. Any suggestions? I am ready to sell it for scrap iron very soon.

How much?

Are you in NW GA?

These machines work VERY well as designed, with the up keep they need.

Absolutely no need to go space age on them!!!

Need to learn what makes them tick as they were made.

That electronic stuff is crazy, especially on a front mount.
This post was edited by Dunk at 19:39:08 07/23/08 2 times.

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Bob

07-24-2008 12:59:24

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Re: Whats the whine in reply to Elvin Frank, 07-24-2008 11:09:41

8N's have helical-cut transmission gears, while the 9N and 2N have straight-cut gears.

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Darryl (Mo)

10-20-1999 21:16:40

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Re: Re: Re: Re: 2N Restoration vs. Recoloration in reply to Alan, 10-20-1999 20:54:59

Alan, The absolute first thing is to invest in a service manual and operator's manual. A parts manual is also a very good investment, especially for the exploded views it offers. These manuals are available from this board's sponsors or at your nearest Ford / New Holland dealer. The lift problem could be pump-related, bad lift cylinder seals, adjustment, or ?????. Try troubleshooting with the help of the manuals and also access the N-Board archives, which are accessible from the column on the left or at the top of the N-Board page. The proper color is available, but I believe most people paint the 9N's & 2N's a shade of gray that is too light. Original color was a pretty dark shade. A little research should turn it up for you. Good luck!

Regards,
Darryl 8N 210077 'Wheezer'

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