Another leak

Believe or not, you can take the whole axle trumpet and brake assy off at one time if you are superman. (I'm not good at pumping iron, grin).

More better you "bite the bullet" and do it the way the I&T FO-4 manual illustrates and while you got it appart, replace the old axle seals with fresh one to prevent oil leaking on the brake shoes.

Just grunt work mostly, and the hardest grunt is the 400 ft/lbs on the axle nut, but a 6 ft cheater bar makes that tolorable.

Good Luck..... Dell

But don't be scaring him with those nutty stories. He has a 2N - no nut. It doesn't make it any easier, tho'!

llater,

llamas

A certain gentleman of great learning and experience in CO suggests that, with a fair day and a following breeze, you can tighten this through the PTO shaft hole - after removing the PTO shaft, naturally.

Despite being blessed with what my veterinarian enviously refers to as "little lady's hands", I have tried this and cannot do it. I think that, with the right combination of flex drives and extensions, you can get a socket on the nut. What defeated me was getting the cotter out.

That aside, if it leaks, the gasket is likely shot, and even if you tighten it, it may leak again soon. Bite the bullet and haul off the offending housing. While you're in there, you can get the opposite side at the same time, working through the differential housing. The gasket is no longer serviced, you'll need to make one. If the pin itself is all tired out, you can replace this at the same time. They are not cheap - about $20 a shot - but still a current FNH item. Be sure you get the 9N/2N style (straight shank) and not the 8N style (taper shank) - more than one FNH parts man has gotten this wrong.

GLWI,

llater,

llamas