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Lift Arms

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Paul B

11-16-1999 22:08:16




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I not yet been able to pull the lift arms from the lift axle to replace the broken axle bushing. This is the last stage of the mechanical rebuilding of an 8N that was parked in a lean-to for 9 years. The whole three point area is well endowed with rust. I've tried a penetrating oil soak for three days. Bought a more substantial gear puller. Tapped with a ball-pein (sp?) hammer. Thought about a torch and about taking it to a machine shop. What's a good shade tree method to get it off? Also, after removing the arms, how do you reset them as far as both lift arms placed at the same angle on the axle and at what angle in relation to the system? IT manual recommends scoring the arms and the axle for realignment but I plan to add new ones. Many thanks! Paul B.

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add a question to a question dave#1

11-17-1999 16:46:08




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 Re: Lift Arms in reply to Paul B, 11-16-1999 22:08:16  
I'm also in the same boat, at least one of my bushings is worn or broke and is in need of R&R, my question is- do both lift arms have to be removed from the rocker shaft ? or just one ?, In other words with just one lift arm removed can you now replace/repair all bushings?? thanks

later,dave



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EricG.NH

11-18-1999 05:53:06




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 Re: Re: Lift Arms in reply to add a question to a question dave#1, 11-17-1999 16:46:08  
No! Each bushing is held between a lift arm and the central splines of the lift shaft.
Eric



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llamas

11-17-1999 08:28:00




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 Re: Lift Arms in reply to Paul B, 11-16-1999 22:08:16  
Oh, you poor SOB. This is an absolute pain of a job to do.

As advised, spend the bucks and have a shop with a really big press get these off for you. They need a special bolster set ( can't recall what it's called) to get under the edge of the lift arm and push square. Be advised that the bond between the shaft and the arm can be a lot stronger than the hydraulic cover casting - if you go to walloping on it without adequate support, it's not hard to crack the cover in two.

I've seen a 50,000# press pegged out on one of these and still not shift it. Heat, penetrant, tapping, more heat - there's a lot of bonded surface area that needs to break free before these will acome apart.

llater,

llamas

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BB Stacker

11-17-1999 06:31:20




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 Re: Lift Arms in reply to Paul B, 11-16-1999 22:08:16  
I was in the same situation as you a while back, after using alot of heat, breaking a good size puller and taking the skin off all my knuckles I took it to a machine shop and had it pressed off. The best ten dollars I ever spent. The way the spline is made, you can't put it together wrong. Make sure you use Anti Seize, you may have to do this again in about fifty years.



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EricG.NH

11-17-1999 05:30:43




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 Re: Lift Arms in reply to Paul B, 11-16-1999 22:08:16  
If using a "bigger hammer", take care not to damage the splines on the end of the lift shaft. My 2 cents is, find someone with a hydraulic press and save yourself a lot of trouble and time. Eric
P.S. The lift arms fit on the shaft only one way. One spline is larger than the others. A type of key!



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bg

11-17-1999 05:08:49




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 Re: Lift Arms in reply to Paul B, 11-16-1999 22:08:16  
When I run across something like this, I usually end up using heat and some sort of lubricant-water, oil, kerosene(yes I know it will flame up). I apply the lubricant and then heat. The heat will help move the liquid into the joint. Keep on doing it, while tapping, prying, wiggling, shaking or otherwise trying to move the affected part. You might try a gear puller, if you can get the jaws in the correct position to apply pressure while heating. There is an old story that some archaeologists found an old chariot in Egypt that had a heiroglyphic inscription on the hub of the wheel. Calling a translator, they discovered it said:"To remove wheel,don't force it. Get a bigger hammer."
As far as marking the position of the arms, my 8N has one wide spline directly aligned with the arm. It can only go on one way. Don't know about earlier 8N's and 9/2's. Make sure to note the position of the lift arm shaft to the ram arm when you remove the ram arm.

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ZANE

11-17-1999 05:05:13




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 Re: Lift Arms in reply to Paul B, 11-16-1999 22:08:16  
You have tackled the worst job possible on the N tractor. Removing the lift arm from the rocker shaft. If I were you and were planning to replace the arms with new one anyway I would use the old red wrench (cutting torch) and be done with it.Just split each one all the way on both sides of the shaft and then it will come off. Try not to get into the spline but if you do it can be fixed by grinding a little in the spline. You will have to have the spline really clean on one side at least in order to get the rocker shaft out of the rocker that is inside the lift. It will usually not present quiet as much of a challenge but some times it will too.

I believe that there is a master spline in all the components that will not let you install them incorrectly. You should be able to tell by looking at the end of the rocker shaft with the bolt and washer off.

There is one other procedure that might let you get the shaft out and that is to lay the lift housing on it's side on a stump etc with some one holding it and using a steel shaft of almost the same diameter as the rocker shaft and driving the shaft out of the lift arm and the rocker arm that is inside at the same time.If and when you should get the lift arm off the shaft you should carefully measure the diameter of the end of the shaft and if it is swollen from the hammering it should be partially ground off so the it will go through the rocker arm inside.

I have also used a rose bud heating torch to make it red and then with a sledge hammer knocked it off. There probably is a puller that will pull one but as yet I have not found it.Problem is that a puller big enough to pull it has too big hooks to catch the inside of the arm.Wouldn't it have been nice of them to have used a clamp type assembly so that it could have been loosened???

Good luck. You will need it!

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