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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Muratic acid

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Pete/ME

12-17-2005 04:52:15




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Instead of "Extend" could I use plain muriatic acid with a small brush for the bottom of rust pits in sheet metal, neutralize with a solution of bleach, rinse with thinner and then prime with zinc chromate? By the way, a few posts back a fella suggested using "Kiltz" for a primer, that stuff is just shellac with a white pigment. It cracks easily and is soluable in alchohol. I wouldn't use it for a tractor. The vibration and fuel would mess it up.(I'm a woodworker, and am familiar with the stuff, use it all the time for knots.)Not a bad idea on the face of it, but I think there's better stuff just for tractors.

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CNKS

12-17-2005 06:35:48




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 Re: Muratic acid in reply to Pete/ME, 12-17-2005 04:52:15  
No advantage and possibly detrimental. I wouldn't use Extend for that purpose, either, as it is overkill. Hydrochloric (Muratic) acid is a strong acid and can destroy metal if not totally neutralized. Phosphoric acid is a weak acid and should also be removed, but apparantly does no damage in dilute solutions. If you don't want to pay the price for something such as Picklex which is designed for that purpose, there are other dilute products that will do about same thing. One is Must For Rust that I found at Home Depot. You will remove most of them when sanding and using wax and grease remover prior to priming, that may not be the case with HCl. Why zinc chromate?? -- just use epoxy primer. No isos, at least in most brands.

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Pete/ME

12-18-2005 03:37:58




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 Re: Muratic acid in reply to CNKS, 12-17-2005 06:35:48  
Use muratic for rust stains on bricks and mortar, thought it would work on pits and flash on steel. Guess not...thanks. Also thought zinc chromate was for bare metal and red lead was for rusty stuff. Perhaps things have changed since I worked on my '58 Crown Vic.



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CNKS

12-18-2005 06:15:51




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 Re: Muratic acid in reply to Pete/ME, 12-18-2005 03:37:58  
Best to use all products from the same manufacturer. Pretty much standard for sheet metal is epoxy, then surfacer/primer surfacer then topcoat. On cast you skip the surfacer. Some will use etch primer instead of epoxy, however you have to sand old metal so the etch is not neccessary.



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