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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

piclex vs loctite extendsX2

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Pete/ME

12-21-2005 03:33:39




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So I sand off as much of the old paint and rust as I can, foam brush the pits with "extend", bondo, sand, Acryl-red, sand and then picklex the whole thing and let it set until it warms up (probably April), and then rub down with "Scotchbrite", wipe off with DX33 and prime and paint (/JD primer & Classic). Am I on the right track?




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Pete/ME

12-22-2005 02:57:06




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-21-2005 03:33:39  
Great. The pits, on the medalion for instance, are too deep to grind out. I just wanted to kill the rust in the bottom of the pits so when I filled them they wouldn't keep rusting. Acyrl-red is a 3-m glazing putty, used to use it for pin holes and shallow scratches. So it's Picklex, fill, sand flat, then prime? It's 2 above this morning in downtown Whitefield Maine. Thanks.



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CNKS

12-22-2005 07:18:28




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-22-2005 02:57:06  
That's mostly correct, except that I won't guarantee that the bondo won't react with the Picklex, I simply do not know. I don't like using acid when there is a plastic-type material involved.



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CNKS

12-21-2005 05:53:59




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-21-2005 03:33:39  
No -- skip the extend. Sand off all the paint and rust. You may be able to get the rust out of the pits with a wire brush on a drill, if not treat with Picklex, not extend. Then use Bondo after sanding off most of the Picklex -- putting Picklex over or under bondo is probably not a good idea, you may get a reaction, I don't know, I try to keep it off of bondo. Then put your primer on, sand it next spring and reapply, then topcoat. If it is inside, you are probably ok doing that. JD primer is not water proof, you will get better protection with epoxy primer. I assume ME is Maine, meaning humid (and cold!). It is too cold to paint there now -- you might want to wait until next spring to do anything. But, if you want to give it minimal protection, use the JD primer, sand it thorougly next spring and reapply. I don't know how thick JD primer is, if it is thin, you may still see pits through it, as the bondo is easy to sand out of the pits if you are not careful -- I use a surfacer over epoxy primer, it gives a smooth finish. I don't know what Acryl-red is -- whatever it is, it likely is not necessary, you don't need that many steps, keep it simple. It is impossible for me to make recommendations on products I have not used. Rod(NH) is the pit expert -- he may have something to add.

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ol' guy

12-29-2005 17:20:48




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to CNKS, 12-21-2005 05:53:59  
I"m far from an expert in painting. What do you mean by "surfacer", and what product do you use. Have you ever used, or seen used the John Deere Primer-Sealer??



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CNKS

12-31-2005 18:39:58




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to ol' guy, 12-29-2005 17:20:48  
I did not see your response till now. I have not used the JD product -- I assume by the term primer-sealer that it is not sandable, and is used mainly to seal an older finish. Surfacers or primer surfacers are used over epoxy to give a smooth finish. They are sanded between a series of applications. You usually apply 2 or 3 coats, let dry, sand, and repeat the process until you are satisfied that you have covered sanding scratches, etc made when preparing the surface. They will also fill very small depressions and shallow rust pits (not dents). Some primers that do not include the term "surfacer" are also sandable, but likely do not have the high build properties of surfacers or primer-surfacers. A primer-surfacer can be applied over properly prepared bare metal (although using epoxy first is desirable), a pure surfacer will not adhere to bare metal without extensive preparation, ie sanding AND etch priming, or at least for PPG surfacers.

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moseed

12-28-2005 08:33:19




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to CNKS, 12-21-2005 05:53:59  
First, thanks to Rod and CNKS participation (and others) on this board because while I may not participate much I read this board alot while I try to work up the nerve to paint my F-12 and my W-12. My confidence isn't where it needs to be yet but I'm working on it. That being said I wanted to ask if a guy could do all the prepping through applying Piclex (everything indoors throughout) on the prepared surface and hold off applying the epoxy primer until ready to apply the finish coat in good order so as to avoid having to scuff the primer before applying the Epoxy finish coat? Thanks again.

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Rod (NH)

12-28-2005 12:14:30




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to moseed, 12-28-2005 08:33:19  
Hi Moseed,

I think you mean another epoxy primer coat caused by missing the time window for topcoating the first epoxy primer coat and not an "epoxy finish" coat. Yes, you certainly can stop after the Picklex treatment and resume at a later time when you are ready to apply the epoxy primer and the rest. I think you should still lightly scuff/wipe the surface before epoxy primer to remove any relatively loose white residue (I agree with CNKS on that matter) but you would avoid applying additional epoxy. While my personal preference is to apply epoxy immediately after cleaning/sandblasting, I have used Picklex when it was too cold to apply the epoxy in order to preserve the surface in a rust-free condition until a later time when the epoxy could be applied. So I know it works that way.

PS: Pick up an old car hood or door or something from a junkyard and do a little practice painting with the entire sequence using the exact materials that you plan on using on your tractors. It's a great confidence builder and gives you a chance to find out beforehand if you need to make any changes in either materials or technique.

third party image Rod

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moseed

12-29-2005 07:07:21




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 Re: piclex vs loctite extendsX2 in reply to Rod (NH), 12-28-2005 12:14:30  
Thanks and the practice on a hood or fender type thing is a great idea!



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