TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Oliver & Cockshutt Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

WD-40

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

Pete/ME

12-26-2005 02:48:43

Report to Moderator

Try as I might, I just can't get the barn warmer than 45 for longer than a half hour, and that's with the salamander and the barrel stove going. Warm enought to work, but no chance with paint. Plenty of sanding and wirewheeling to do though. To keep things from rusting up until May, I was thinking about spray caning a light coat of WD, and then rinsing everthing off with paint thinner or wax and grease cleaner when I go to paint. Is there something better that will work in the cold?

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

B-maniac

01-07-2006 19:03:39

Report to Moderator

Re: WD-40 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-26-2005 02:48:43

WD 40 should never be used in the same room as paint will be used. It has silicone in it and it will circulate with the air in your shop and end up every where and will contaminate your new paint job with little craters called "fish eyes" ,will look awfull and take a lot of work to correct.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

rockie

01-03-2006 19:48:43

Report to Moderator

Re: WD-40 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-26-2005 02:48:43

I am in the same situation. Got the body parts in a shed that can be kept above 60. Frame and engine were sitting outside and I felt I could not prime and paint until the weather warmed. I coving the project tightly with plastic sheeeting and placed small electic heat under engine area. Surprised to find tractor and area under the plastic was in mid 60's within a day. I uncover and grind off old paint for a few hours each afternoon then recover and heat the rest of the time. I have not seen rust in the four days since starting this practice. I will skip out of work early tomorrow to put on the primer coat and plan to keep her covered for a week or so. Winters are mild here in SC 34-50 F, but reducing the area you try to heat may be the trick. Humidity is high here so battling rust is a concern for me. Good luck with your project.
Rockie

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

CNKS

12-27-2005 18:06:24

Report to Moderator

Re: WD-40 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-26-2005 02:48:43

The link Rod gave pretty much explains Picklex. I will add four qualifications, though. 1. Be careful with it on cast, as cast is pourous and will absorb it. I usually scrub cast before painting, and use repeated applications of wax and grease remover until the rags come back mostly clean (all the way clean is darn near impossible) That said, thus far I have had no problems with it on cast.

2. It says you do not need primer -- I don't believe that -- I use it only on clean metal that has had the rust mechanically removed. I do not use it as a conversion coating (i.e. on rusty metal) except for rust in the nooks and crannies that I can't get to. Otherwise it is used only as a protectant.

3. The spec sheet says to ignore the white coating. I don't, I remove as much as I can. I don't consider the coating to be completely bonded to the metal and I am afraid it will interfere with adhesion of the paint. I can't prove that, I simply prefer to scuff it and remove what I can with wax and grease remover.

4. The info says do not use it in combination with etch primer (I don't use etch anyway). I doubt if you will even consider it, but don't even think about using etch primer AND Picklex on cast.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rod (NH)

12-27-2005 17:41:38

Report to Moderator

Re: WD-40 in reply to Pete/ME, 12-26-2005 02:48:43

Hi Pete,

I wouldn't use WD40. I dislike using something that I know I will have to completely remove at some later time. Picklex20 is a good product for doing exactly what you want without additional work later. I have used it in a situation like yours. CNKS also uses a similar product containing phosphoric acid that is available at Home Depot (I think) but I haven't tried it. Do a search on the word picklex in this forum and you will find one or more posts where he describes that alternative. A tech sheet on the Picklex is available here if you are interested.

Rod

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

[Options] [Printer Friendly] [Posting Help] [Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy