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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS?

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Tanner Peacock-

12-28-2005 04:42:27




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I have a piece of plastic that I am working on. Decals were installed on the paint and then clearcoated. I had to remove these decals, so I cut the edge of the decals to brake the clearcoat around the decals, and then I pulled them up. So now I have a paint level on the surface and a clearcoat level. Obviously the clearcoat level is higher, so I need to bring the paint level up to the clearcoat level.

This was my thought, I need to tape off all the areas that are clearcoated already and then shoot the lower are with new clearcoat to bring it up to the correct level. Does this sound about right, and do you think it will work? Thanks for your help.

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frank Stalfire

12-29-2005 07:53:57




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 Re: Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS? in reply to Tanner Peacock-Clark, 12-28-2005 04:42:27  
the other option is to clear coat it again, sand to level and clear again, it would be the same as using primer but without the color. you wil still have to use a little color because where the clear was peeled will have a different depth and lok different



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Tanner Clark

12-28-2005 15:23:39




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 Re: Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS? in reply to Tanner Peacock-Clark, 12-28-2005 04:42:27  
Yes, I was able to lightly cut through the clear just enough to essentially release the decal. The color beneath the decal is in perfect shape, so I just need to match the two different levels with clearcoat.

I know this probably sounds backwards to you guys, but the rest of the paint scheme was a lot of work, and I don't want to do it over again. Hopefully I can do this and not make it look crappy.

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Rod (NH)

12-28-2005 12:06:23




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 Re: Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS? in reply to Tanner Peacock-Clark, 12-28-2005 04:42:27  
Hi Tanner,

Not having attempted such a repair myself and not knowing the particulars of the existing color and clear paints (automotive vs non-automotive, bc/cc vs ss/cc, catalyzed vs uncatalyzed color, exact clear product, etc), I do not have a recommendation that I feel comfortable with. If it were mine, not knowing the above, I would proceed to strip the entire part, re-color and re-clear from the beginning. It could even be a lacquer clear, in which case I think it probably should be stripped anyway. In other words, a Rustoleum base with a rattle can lacquer clear is not worthy of much effort in attempting a blend repair, in my opinion.

I am also curious how you were able to cut through the clear to pull the decal without damaging the color film at the cut line. I am trying to think how I would proceed if I wanted to remove a decal that was cleared over. At first blush, I guess I would simply strip the entire part and start over rather than attempting to remove just the decal and blending some kind of repair, even with known materials to begin with.

In any event, good luck with your fix, however you decide to proceed.

third party image Rod

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frank Stalfire

12-28-2005 08:00:10




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 Re: Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS? in reply to Tanner Peacock-Clark, 12-28-2005 04:42:27  
You will need to sand the edge with some 180 to get the surfaces "blended together" then smooth them with 320 and you will need primer to cover the exposed edge, sand primer when done and spray color and then clear, it's the same process as when you have a scratch on a car just on a larger scale



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CNKS

12-28-2005 08:21:14




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 Re: Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS? in reply to frank Stalfire, 12-28-2005 08:00:10  
I thought he still had a good base under the clear? So perhaps he doesn't need to prime? Can't he just sand the base coat that is under the decals level, also the clear around it (sanding down to the base in that area) spot spray base coat on the area where he needs color, then clear the whole thing? The existing clear on the whole panel needs to be sanded lightly doesn't it? Or maybe I missed something.

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CNKS

12-28-2005 05:09:14




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 Re: Clearcoating tricky question Rod/CNKS? in reply to Tanner Peacock-Clark, 12-28-2005 04:42:27  
I have not done that, and Rod can probably give a better answer. I have not used clear, and perhaps shouldn't comment. But, I would sand the clearcoat flat on the whole thing, then apply another couple of coats of clear. I don't think you can easily blend new clear with old anyway. And, you cannot successfuly mask a surface that does not have a clear break (ridge, seam, etc) between new and old.

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