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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Lead

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Pete/ME

02-14-2006 02:30:35




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Have some dings on the grills of my '48 B. Used Bondo on shallow scratches on the hood, but thought I'd like to try lead on the grill because it's bound to get tunked. Need to know what to use for lead, flux and how much heat. The new solder has no lead, but I can find some of the real stuff, does it matter? Is plumbers solder flux O.K.? Will a Bernz propane give enough heat? Thanks.




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rustyj14

02-15-2006 16:58:07




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 Re: Lead in reply to Pete/ME, 02-14-2006 02:30:35  
The lead used for auto body work has a different lead/tin make-up, compared to plumbers lead. This is why body lead can be worked easily and won't run off suddenly! At this late date, i can't remember the ratio of tin to lead, since the last time i used it was shortly after auto body plastic filler finally had the bugs worked out of it! And, the high price of body lead finished it off! With some practice, body lead is heated to a soft consistency, then paddled around with a wooden paddle made from hard wood, and lubricated with bees wax! It is worked into the approximate shape, then filed and sanded to shape. I think we tinned the job first with muriatic acid with a small brush, or a rag with a coat hanger wire handle! After all work was finished, it was washed off with hot water, then metal prep was applied, and after drying, was primed, etc. On the other hand, plumbers lead is unforgiving! You heat it and heat it and heat it---and then it suddenly goes to liquid form and runs off the job! As you found out Maybe another old time body man can remember the lead/ tin ratio! HTH

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Pete/ME

02-15-2006 02:54:35




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 Re: Lead in reply to Pete/ME, 02-14-2006 02:30:35  
Thanks guys. Tried it yesterday. Dime sized dimples in the bars of the grill. Used acid core 50/50 and a propane torch. Seems to work pretty slick, fussy work though, have to get the melt just right heat wise or it will run off, hard to build up, and you gotta know when to stop. I think I'll keep at it.



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B-maniac

02-14-2006 19:53:15




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 Re: Lead in reply to Pete/ME, 02-14-2006 02:30:35  
Been in body bussiness over 35 yrs.,have repaired with lead and body filler. My advice is to leave lead to the "purists",save yourself a lot of headache and do-overs and use a good grade of polyester body filler and glaze coat,prepare surface correctly and it won't let go. LOL.



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Ford Red

02-14-2006 07:26:48




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 Re: Lead in reply to Pete/ME, 02-14-2006 02:30:35  
A poorly done lead repair(as in amateur) is not as good as the same job properly done with plastic filler. A lead repair that looks good can have acid mixed into the lead, poor adhesion, air pockets, etc. Any one of these can cause failure of paint, and/or the repair itself. You definitely need some study and practice before doing something you care about.



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Red Dave

02-14-2006 06:34:30




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 Re: Lead in reply to Pete/ME, 02-14-2006 02:30:35  
I've never done a lead job, but I've seen the tools and supplies in the Eastwood catalog. Might have a "How To" guide in there too.



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Ducknose Bob

02-14-2006 05:38:24




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 Re: Lead in reply to Pete/ME, 02-14-2006 02:30:35  
You are wanting to practice a lost art, you might want to check Hemmings Motor News for supplies and techniques in doing this.
This would make a good topic for a topic/demonstration at a restoration clinic.



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