Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Proper steps

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Andrew Betzner

03-14-2006 16:45:12




Report to Moderator

Ok I need someone to verify that the info I have so far is correct. I'm going to be using Case's brand paint which I think is an acrylic enamel.

1. Sand to bare metal and finish with 220grt.
2. Wash and then let dry
3. Go over with tack rag.
4. Spray primer
5. once dry wet sand with 400grt. 6. go over with tack rag
7. Another primer coat
8. once dry wet sand with 600grt.
9. go over with tack rag
10. Color coat
11. wet Sand with 800grt.
12. go over with tack rag.
13 another color coat
14. Polish with 1000grt.

Does this sound right? I can't seem to find any straight cut info on how the proccess is supposed to go. Also where do I buy a tack rag and what chemicals are supposed to be on it?
Please critique my proccess.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
B-maniac

03-15-2006 19:34:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: Proper steps in reply to Andrew Betzner, 03-14-2006 16:45:12  
I am assuming that you have perfectly straight sheet metal on the Case , or, you're not going to fix the dings/imperfections. I'm not judging,but if you are , there's a whole nother set of rules to add to your list. If not,I think Rod and CNKS pretty much have you headed straight. LOL.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

03-15-2006 08:14:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Proper steps in reply to Andrew Betzner, 03-14-2006 16:45:12  
Hi Andrew,

Just to add to what CNKS said:

A tack rag is a thin "cheesecloth" material that is about a foot and a half square and has a very sticky surface. It is used to wipe over a surface to pick up any remaining dust or dirt before painting. I know you can buy tack rags in an automotive paint supply store, possibly elswhere also. If you have a NAPA store near you, they would have them. Sometimes you buy them in a box of a dozen or so but they can also be available individually. They are not expensive.

I don't do any wet sanding at all except for color-sanding with very fine grits - and even that not in many years. Dry sanding with 400 grit should be fine for your primer, but you can wet sand if you wish - it's a preference, not a requirement. It may be helpful with some types of sandpaper to minimize loading but I just don't bother with it. If you are going to apply two coats of primer, I would do them consecutively with no sanding in between, unless the manufacturer's instructions indicate otherwise.

As to color coats, I also would apply them consecutively unless stated otherwise on the can label and with no sanding between coats. If the time between coats is not indicated on the label, typical times for enamels would be 15 to 20 minutes but can also be determined by a light finger touch. I wouldn't proceed with the next coat until such time that a light finger touch indicated a tacky surface - on an edge or someplace where it wouldn't show. Unhardened enamels may or may not have a recoat problem if allowed to dry and another coat added later. See your can label for any caution in this regard.

See CNKS's reference to a supplied air breathing system. I assume you are not going to use a hardener additive. If that's true, you should not touch any sandpaper of any grit to the final color coat. You will destroy the gloss and not be able to recover it fully by compounding later. The paint film simply is not hard enough to do that. What you see is what you get after that last coat is applied. I wouldn't even use a mild polish for several months. And keep any gasoline spills off it or you will likely be very disappointed. With hardened enamels the situation is different but I don't think we are talking about that here.

third party image Rod

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Andrew Betzner

03-14-2006 20:58:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: Proper steps in reply to Andrew Betzner, 03-14-2006 16:45:12  
How much does epoxy primer run?
Also how would theses steps differ for cast parts?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

03-15-2006 06:14:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: Proper steps in reply to Andrew Betzner, 03-14-2006 20:58:41  
PPG MP 170 epoxy was about $72 including catalyst a couple of months ago--prices vary from one place to another. Cast needs to be stripped of old paint and rust. Oven cleaner and/or chemical stripper will remove the paint. If you use chemical stripper, it MUST all be removed or it will lift the paint. You go over the cast with a wire brush on an angle grinder or electric drill -- I use a number of wire brushes, as some places are hard to get to. You can't really sand cast as all the sandpaper gets is the peaks. I do use a sandpaper "flapper wheel" in an electric drill, but it is not a stand alone item. Then clean the cast thorougly with some household cleaner such as 409 until more or less clean -- will take many applications. Follow that with several applications of wax and grease remover (PPG DX330 is an example), to remove the rest of the crud and any residues left from the previous cleanings. Tack rag, apply two coats of MP 170, tack rag again and topcoat. You do not need any other primer other than epoxy on cast. It's harder than it sounds to get cast really clean -- the way my shop is set up I cannot pressure wash a disassembled tractor in my building. Before I do the final cleaning on mine it is nothing but a hunk of iron on jackstands. You may not choose to go to that much trouble.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

03-14-2006 17:27:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Proper steps in reply to Andrew Betzner, 03-14-2006 16:45:12  
Some suggestions, I will assume you mean the sheet metal, cast requires a somewhat different process -- 1. Sand the bare metal with 180 grit and use epoxy primer.
2. You can initially wash with soap and water, etc, but finish with wax and grease remover to remove any residue that may cause problems. Do it until the rags are clean.
3. Correct
4. Epoxy primer is non-sanding, usually, use it to seal the metal from rust and get good adhesion to the sheet metal.
5-9. Apply a sandable surfacer or primer surfacer over the epoxy, about 3 coats allowing it to flash between coats. Sand smooth with 400 grit. Repeat the whole process 1-3 more times until you are satisfied with the results. The last coat can be sanded with 600 grit if you wish. Use tack rag between sanded coats -- not as important here as it is before the topcoat, but good insurance.
11-14. B-maniac prefers to put another coat of epoxy over the surfacer, I have not tried that, yet. If you have a clean environment, do not get appreciable orange peel, etc, you can apply 3 coats of color without sanding and buffing. If not you do what you have to do. You may simply want to sand smooth, apply the last coat, and be done with it. I am currently having problems keeping stuff out of the paint - you might read the threads about this problem below. You cannot "polish" with 1000 grit sandpaper, or 2000 grit for that matter. After sanding you have to compound and buff out, with a good rotary buffer, not some cheap orbital like you find at Walmart, unless you simply prefer to add another coat of paint. AND, you cannot do any sanding or buffing until the topcoat is dry. That means you need hardened paint, which requires a supplied air system. You CAN buff out unhardened paint, but you have to wait a couple of months, even then it may not be successful -- Rod, B-maniac, anyone else is free to add comments -- I'm not the last word, as you can see from my recent questions.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy