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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Epoxy primer

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CNKS

03-24-2006 16:51:25

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Rod, or B maniac -- I put MP 170 epoxy on my hood yesterday (Thurs), applied MP 182 today and sanded with 400. I am not going to do anything else until Monday. The 182 was sanded down to the 170 in a few places. Does this require sanding those spots and reapplying the 170? Will be outside the 3 day window for topcoating or other priming, although it was covered for 3 hours or so. I have always wondered about this, but usually ignore it.

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B-maniac

03-31-2006 17:39:32

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Re: Epoxy primer in reply to CNKS, 03-24-2006 16:51:25

The "windows" on such products only apply to the "chemical crosslinking properties" and not to hardness or recoatability. In other words, adhesion may diminish outside the window,but once you sand it you can recoat it any time with anything. (within the "system". There are no "windows" pertaining to mechanical bond.

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B-maniac

03-31-2006 17:18:56

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Re: Epoxy primer in reply to CNKS, 03-24-2006 16:51:25

"what Rod said"

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Rod (NH)

03-24-2006 19:18:49

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Re: Epoxy primer in reply to CNKS, 03-24-2006 16:51:25

You probably don't have to do anything if the spots are relatively small. You should have a 400 scratch in the epoxy so you'll get a mechanical bond if not a chemical one. When I've been in a similar situation, I've also cut through the epoxy and have a little bare metal showing. In that I case I have spotted the area with epoxy, added another coat or two of 182 within the window and re-sanded - for later topcoating. However, If I were planning on topcoating anyway within the 3 day window of the 170, I now would use B---'s method of applying a single coat of epoxy, reduced as a sealer. That would be faster and easier than more 182 and more sanding. I prefer to have a completely uniform shade for a base prior to any topcoat so it's either an all-over with a sealer or it's more epoxy/surfacer for me. I suppose it depends on your confidence in getting the 170 on nice and flat with no peel and your schedule for topcoating. I suspect you would get along just fine if you topcoated just as it is. Since you are using a single stage that covers pretty well (I guess) and are applying a third coat for "good measure", I doubt a uniform base shade is that much of a necessity.

I found the post below by Chuck130 interesting in that I noticed that DuPont seems to emphasize mechanical bonds for topcoating their premium epoxy at later times whereas PPG emphasizes chemical bonds. I have always been under the impression that DuPont has favored etch primers over epoxy and that PPG has favored epoxies over etch primers. Perhaps the DuPont products are easier to sand than the similar PPG ones. I don't know. I suspect it is more a corporate preference than a significant difference in materials. I was surprised to find out that the Nason epoxy was completely silent on the issue of topcoating windows. I do agree with B--- that a chemical bond is better than a mechanical one although I really can't explain why. It may not be that much better to justify going to any trouble to achieve it though. PPG seems to think it is. DuPont apparently does not.

Rod

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CNKS

03-24-2006 19:47:57

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Re: Epoxy primer in reply to Rod (NH), 03-24-2006 19:18:49

Thanks, just curious. I have a small dent I did not get completely filled and some scratches where I got a little rough with the old paint removal that I don't think the 182 is going to fill. I will sand and use some evercoat glazing putty on those areas, then will probably give the whole thing a coat of 170 again anyway, then finish with 182. I do have a couple of spots of bare metal showing, will have more when I sand before the Evercoat, as it recommends no finer than 240 grit -- I will probably use 180, since I have some. As to the 170 as a sealer, I'm not sure I can get it to lay down smooth enough. Might try it on a smaller piece sometime. Any other exposure of the 170, I can likely topcoat within the 3 day window.

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