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Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!!

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NB06IH1066

04-03-2006 21:15:27




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I am paiting an IH 1066 for my father. I have painted a 966 and an allis chalmers wd. The WD was for a friend and we used BPS paint with hardener. It turned out very well for the amount of money we spent on it. My father has already purchased Case IH 2150 paint and primer. I know that automotive paint will give me a better finish but i dont have the funds to do so. I want all of you experts to let me know how i can get the best paint job possible out of my IH 2150 rouge red. In the past I have primed the pieces, wet sanded sheet metal with 300 grit paper, then applied my rouge red 2150 reduced with thinner at a 3:1 ratio.
My questions are:

What is the best ratio of reducer to paint, to use with the 2150?

Can anything be added to enhance gloss or finish (ie, hardener), if so, what do you suggest. Basically I would love any and all advice on this topic! Advice can be posted here or sent to my email Beed4isu87@aol.com

Thank you!

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Gauger

04-11-2006 10:25:12




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 Re: Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!! in reply to NB06IH1066, 04-03-2006 21:15:27  
Mix the 2150 8 paint to 1 part IH thinner. I wet sand the primer and the first topcoat with 400. Shoot a tack coat and then full wet. I don't use hardener or clear. I use an old Craftsman or my Devilbiss JGA cup gun (doesn't matter) at about 45psi. Shines like glass. Tip I got from an old body man years ago: Only paint when the atmospheric pressure is high (clear and sunny day) and you will get better gloss. Don't know why but it is true.

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CNKS

04-04-2006 12:35:27




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 Re: Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!! in reply to NB06IH1066, 04-03-2006 21:15:27  
I have not used 2150 except for color matching to PPG Omni -- so my comments are subject to change by those who have used it. I believe the recommended ratio is 8:1, I think the can says it can be thinned 25%, that would be 4:1. If you have had success with 3:1, why change?-- Although I think that would run quite easily. Case-IH has or can get hardener for 2150. Others have had success with other brands. Those of us who have felt the effects of the isocyanates in hardener will not recommend it without a supplied air system as iso's has made people very sick, and has actually killed a few people -- good luck if you use it without one -- the people you buy the hardener from are salesmen and know little about safety. The usual charcoal mask is not adequate. When you use hardener you "usually" reduce the thinner by half and make up the difference with hardener; again, those who have used 2150 may have a better idea. As to sanding, I agree with SouNdguy, in that you should use at least 400 grit on the primer. Finer grits may give a slightly better finish. I am presently using 600. You can also use epoxy primer and cover it with a surfacer/primer surfacer for a smoother finish. Surfacers have a higher build and will be better at filling sand scratches and very small depressions. Plan on tripling the cost of your paint job if you go that route.

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souNdguy

04-04-2006 06:43:10




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 Re: Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!! in reply to NB06IH1066, 04-03-2006 21:15:27  
My comments will be limited to the prep work, as I'm not familiar with your paint.. except I will add this... every paint I've seen with a hardner option.. looks better -with- hardner.

As for the body work.. I reccomend alot finer that 300 wet sand.

I start as heavy as I need depending on what I'm removing, and then go 320.. 400, and finish with 800 before i prime / paint.

The more sweat equity you put in the prep.. the better the paint looks. 1000$ of paint on 20$ of body work looks like a 20$ paint job.. 100$ of paint on 300$ of body work looks like a 300$ paint job..

Soundguy

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CNKS

04-04-2006 17:50:43




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 Re: Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!! in reply to souNdguy, 04-04-2006 06:43:10  
I usually don't go finer than 150 or 180 grit on bare metal. The epoxy primer I use needs a fairly coarse grit, no less than 180, to adhere properly, although I imagine 220 is ok. The surfacer I use over the epoxy is supposed to cover 80 grit sanding scratches when sanded. But, the better condition you can get the metal in before applying anything, the better, as long as the primer will stick.



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NB06IH1066

04-04-2006 19:05:04




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 Re: Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!! in reply to CNKS, 04-04-2006 17:50:43  
I agree, I went down to 300 on the paper because my paint would adhere better. I was worried about runs but i think i can combat that now as my skill progresses some. Thanks for the advice. Are there any hardeners that would work that do no have isoc. (sp?) in them. I used a BPS hardener on the Allis and Im Pretty sure they did not have ISOs. Heres my new plan... please check for flaws or feel free to add any pointers

dry sand painted sheet metal with 100 - 150 grt.
Prime - 2 coats
Wet sand primer 400 - 600 grt.
Paint (as many coats as needed)
2150 ih red - thinner - hardener 8:2:1
Buff finish

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CNKS

04-04-2006 19:48:47




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 Re: Painting with IH 2150 red - I need help!!! in reply to NB06IH1066, 04-04-2006 19:05:04  
ALL topcoat hardeners have iso's. There is some confusion about BPS because the label and MSDS doesn't emphasize them, but I assure you that iso's are there, sort of hidden in the fine print in the instructions. This was discussed in a lengthly post a month or so ago. The catalyst (hardener) for most epoxy primers do not have iso's, those are all that I know of that don't. For painted metal, use at least 320 grit, as you are using the old paint as a primer. It would be best, but not mandatory, if you put epoxy primer over the old paint, as it acts as a sealer. If you strip your old paint to bare metal and do or do not use epoxy, then I would probably use 180-220 grit on the bare metal to get better adhesion of the primer -- but as I say I have not used that primer, and I do not know how well it will cover 180 grit scratches, I imagine it will. Prime with your two coats (or whatever works), sand with 4-600 and topcoat. You may want to repeat the application and sanding if you are not satisfied with the finish. If the 8:2:1 topcoat:thinner:hardener ratio is correct, you are good to go. If you do a good job, you don't need to buff, as buffing is a science in itself.

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