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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Rustoleum top-coat info request

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Kendog

04-12-2006 08:25:47




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Throughout the winter I've repaired and primed the pieces, parts, and sheet metal for an old Farmall-A. As soon as temps permit, I will be top-coating with Rustoleum tractor color-match paint.

These primed surfaces are two-months dry. Should I simply scotch brite roughen to top-coat or is that not required with these basic paints?




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jason(ma)

04-12-2006 20:25:38




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 Re: Rustoleum top-coat info request in reply to Kendog, 04-12-2006 08:25:47  
I just saw some rustolem in a urethane today. What is this color match stuff??



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CNKS

04-13-2006 06:43:09




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 Re: Rustoleum top-coat info request in reply to jason(ma), 04-12-2006 20:25:38  
Urethane would be better -- but some non-automotive paints say urethane on the can, yet do not use a hardener -- I think I used a stain on my window frames that said "urethane". On the other hand if it is indeed a hardened urethane it might be worth looking into, but I bet it isn't.



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Jason(ma)

04-13-2006 09:40:01




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 Re: Rustoleum top-coat info request in reply to CNKS, 04-13-2006 06:43:09  
Yes this rustoleum had a seperate hardner. It was in a french/english can. I don't know where they got it, industrial I think.



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CNKS

04-12-2006 17:19:00




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 Re: Rustoleum top-coat info request in reply to Kendog, 04-12-2006 08:25:47  
You are about to make a mistake that you won't know about until your paint fades--Go to your CaseIH dealer and get IH 2150 red, or if you don't have one it can be ordered from www.cngco.com. I hate to use the word "junk", but that's what Rustoleum tractor paint is. I assume the primer you have already used is compatible, since it is cured, but I won't promise. Rustoleum is alkyd enamel, 2150 is acrylic modified alkyd enamel, several levels above Rustolem without a significant price difference for the small tractor you are painting. Any cured paint or primer should always be sanded or scuffed.

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