|
Hi Mace, I would take issue with whoever advised you that NASON Ful-Cryl II acrylic enamel is a 1K product. Unusual for an AE, the Ful-Cryl actually requires a catalyst (as you have found out) which contains isocyanates. That catalyst is included in this MSDS so you can verify that to your own satisfaction. By definition, requiring a catalyst/activator makes it a 2K product. In using the 1K/2K product reference, any reducer is not included. In other words, an enamel that only requires a reducer is referred to as a 1K product. Therefore, if you are trying to avoid the safety issues with isocyanates, the Ful-Cryl is not the product you want to be looking at. DuPont's equivalent to Delstar is Centari. That can be used as a 1K mix but only if you use the correct reducers for that particular version. The cost will likely be similar to the Delstar though. You might want to consider NASON's FastDry acylic enamel as an alternative. That is most likely a less expensive option and is a 1K product w/o isos. The tech sheet for FastDry is here. I think you are correct with the YS074 DuPont code for that early AC persian orange. It's the closest current DuPont color to it that I have seen. Jason(ma) posted sample sprayout visuals that included YS074 some time ago. The YS074 should be available in both Centari and FastDry acrylic enamels. There may be other non-iso options in the commercial/industrial lines of both PPG and DuPont but I am not familiar with them. I don't think you will achieve a "low gloss" appearance with any of the above paints. Some paints do have a flattening agent available for such a semi-gloss look. I don't think they are available for these particular paints however - at least not formally from the DuPont tech sheets. Unfortunately no 1K product you apply yourself is going to "hold up good to oil and gas spills" - at least not for quite a while after application. That's just the nature of non-catalyzed paint. I don't see any "accelerator" listed in the Ful_Cryl II tech sheet. Besides, you would be very unlikely to need any such special additive, which is really just an extremely fast reducer. Regarding your other post on cooling. The 20 feet is pretty arbitrary but you are on the right track with the copper. Just pitch it down in the direction of flow with a low point drain at the end. Take your service "drop" to your station regulator/filter off the top of that "header" someplace convenient and then do a 180 turn down. This prevents any moisture in the header from gravity-draining directly into your service drop. Also providing a drain at the bottom of your service drop and taking the connection to your regulator/filter off the side of that drop is another good practice you will want to consider. Although I haven't seen it done, if you want a little extra cooling capability, use a length of copper fin-tube (used in hot water baseboard heating applications) in that header to promote heat transfer and moisture condensation.  Rod
| 
