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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Loader Project

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Rick from NC

04-22-2006 18:16:46




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Just obtained a Bush Hog 2400QT loader for my '66 Ford 4000. The red paint on the loader is peeling badly. I am going to bead blast & wire brush the loader and paint Ford Blue. I have several questions.

Can I treat the bare metal with something so it will won't rust until I am ready to prime the whole loader?

I am willing to spend extra to get some good quality paint & primer. Since I don't have a supplied air setup can someone recommend a durable non-iso paint? Are the industrial paints like the dupont tufcote any good? Seems cheap at $43/gal for Ford Blue.

Also can someone reccomend a good beginner HVLP spray gun? I have no experience other than rattle cans. I would like to stay under $100.

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CNKS

04-23-2006 10:43:54




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 Re: Loader Project in reply to Rick from NC, 04-22-2006 18:16:46  
Frank Stalfire, the DuPont rep needs to answer your paint question, if he sees this. If not, the link indicates that tufcoat comes in a variety of formulations, from the replacement for the old Dulux alkyd enamel to some pretty good urethanes. As to the non-iso, some of the tufcoat products are. Otherwise use acrylic enamel without hardener, or an "acrylic modified" alkyd enamel -- DuPont has those, also. From the price you gave I assume that it is the old alkyd enamel (non-iso unless you use hardener), which will fade, but I'm not sure that it is -- see if you can find it in the list. Assuming that your loader is outside, no primer will protect it from rust other than epoxy primer, and epoxys need to be topcoated within a short period of time, from 3 days to a week, depending on the individual product. Otherwise it has to be sanded/scuffed and reapplied. If it is inside, a phosphoric acid product such as Picklex, which is formulated specifically for the purpose you have in mind will prevent rust, it is expensive at about $30 a pint, it goes a long way, but I don't know if a pint will do a loader. I think Must for Rust (I got mine from Home Depot) is about the same thing, according to my use of it, and is much cheaper. They are applied with a squirt bottle, and evened up with a brush. They do not necessarily need to be removed before painting, but I try to remove as much of the residue as I can with a scotchbrite pad, and follow with a good wax and grease remover. As to spray guns, I want mine to last so I stay away from cheap ones. Others like them, they can do the recommending.

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CNKS

04-23-2006 11:05:32




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 Re: Loader Project in reply to CNKS, 04-23-2006 10:43:54  
Further study of the list (hope Frank or Rod comes in), it appears the the one in the link meets your requirements, don't think you are going to get it for $45, though. It is non-iso, and they compare it to one of the Imron (AU) products. The other is a "polyurethane enhanced" alkyd enamel, but the hardener has iso's. After studying the list, I don't think there is anything that could actually be called urethane, though.

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Rick from NC

04-23-2006 17:49:36




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 Re: Loader Project in reply to CNKS, 04-23-2006 11:05:32  
CNKS, thanks for answering my questions. I was hoping you, Rod or Frank had a chance to give me some advice.

Sounds like I will be OK if I get the parts to bare metal, treat them with the Must for Rust from HD and get them inside until I am ready to prime/paint.

On the Tufcote paint the price is for the 3.5 HG-D acrylic-modified V-T alkyd enamel. It does say it will chalk with prolonged outdoor exposure which does not sound good. I found it at www.ketoneindustrial.com. They also list the Tufcote® 3.5 HG-NI but they don't sell it premixed in Ford Blue. It is about $130/gal for safety blue, $112/gal for activator, and $60/gal for catalyst. Looking at the spec sheet this sounds like what I need. I will need to find a local Dupont retailer and price the quantity and color I need. Does PPG or Martin Senour offer something similar? I know I there are places I can get these brands locally.

On the spray gun I see I can get a Devilbiss Finish Line III for $100-$120. How much more would I have to spend to get a good quality gun?

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CNKS

04-23-2006 19:37:59




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 Re: Loader Project in reply to Rick from NC, 04-23-2006 17:49:36  
I just briefly scanned the tufcoat list, and missed the chalking part. The HG-NI sounds too expensive to me, but again I have never used any. PPG also makes the acrylic modified alkyd enamels, I imagine Martin Senour does too. But, after looking closer at tufcoat, if I were doing it, which I'm not, I think I would use the PPG Omni, or DuPont Nason acrylic enamel. (If Frank answers, do what he says). DuPont Centari, a premium (expensive) acrylic enamel is also available, and can be had in a formulation that does not require hardener. PPG Delstar, similar to Centari is available in some areas. I have heard good reports about the Finishline guns, and was going to buy one, until I found out the one I wanted had a plastic cap, this was 4 years ago before the III came out. I believe the III is all metal, and probably ok. I have a Sharpe Platinum that I bought refurbished for I think about $180. That model is no longer in production. But I consider it a "lifetime" gun. I'm not saying the Finishline gun will not last if taken care of. The major companies such as Sharpe and Devilbiss are producing intermediate priced guns, that are probably better than the cheap Chinese knockoffs, but I don't know who actually makes them. At least you will be able to get parts if you need them.

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