Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Oh no should of looked here first

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Wes in Ohio

05-15-2006 21:07:59




Report to Moderator

I've been working on my tractor for a couple years finally got it started this last saturday, the problem is I sandblasted all the sheet metal, degreased and cleaned everything back to the rear end of the tractor. Thinking I would keep everything from rusting until I was ready to put on finish paint, I went to Napa and bought spray can primer yep I primed it with cheap crap. Now after reading on this forum I believe I have screwed up, cheap primer good paint don't mix, What would be the next step, not gonna be a show tractor but would like it to look nice and last more than two years.
thanks Wes

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
mace56

05-16-2006 16:10:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to Wes in Ohio, 05-15-2006 21:07:59  
When I was in high school we would 'prep' our cars for repaint/repair jobs with Bondo and spray bomb primers. Then the local body guy would spray top coat for us and usually did not charge quite so much since we provided the elbow grease.

I don't remember paints but I know Dupont Centauri was a common one.

How did they keep it from lifting? Did they seal with a primer first?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

05-16-2006 16:35:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to mace56 , 05-16-2006 16:10:26  
A lot of rattle can primers are actually lacquer primers for fast dry. Appying a topcoat like Centari won't cause them to lift. What causes lifting is applying more paint over an uncured enamel after it has reached a sensitive state. This can be caused by lacquer products due to the agressiveness of lacquer thinners. It can also be caused by adding more enamel, depending on how agressive the reducers/solvents are.

Rod

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

05-16-2006 06:19:11




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to Wes in Ohio, 05-15-2006 21:07:59  
Get chemical paint stripper, it should come off pretty easily if you can use a pressure washer. You MUST get all of that stripper out of every nook and crannie and out of the pores of the cast or it will lift your new paint. I have never used it that way, mine has always been the first step not the last, meaning I removed it during the cleaning process. Perhaps Rod(NH), or some other knowledgeable person will answer. You "may" be able to scuff the stuff and seal it with epoxy primer -- I can't give you an answer for that. Or just paint over it if you are going to use an inexpensive paint -- I'm open to any and all suggestions. But, it all depends on how much work you are willing to do. However, if you did the sheet metal, sand or strip it all off, no need to try to paint over that with anything, the cast is the problem.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Wes in Ohio

05-16-2006 09:01:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to CNKS, 05-16-2006 06:19:11  
well I bought my paint at a case dealer, not realizing it wasn't that good but wondering if I use napa primer out of a can, and case enamel paint will it flake off, by no means does it have to be a work of art, Just don't want it to look crappy in a couple years. fading isn't a real big issue. I really don't want it to rust.
anybody out there use this combination of paints?
Wes



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

05-16-2006 17:07:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to Wes in Ohio, 05-16-2006 09:01:26  
As Rod said, I think any problem will be immediate, or within a day or less, as noted in the problem I had in my response to him below. So you are probably ok as long as you test it first. I just didn't want you to paint the whole thing and have it all lift.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

05-16-2006 16:40:27




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to Wes in Ohio, 05-16-2006 09:01:26  
Hi Wes,

I wouldn't worry that much about it. And I wouldn't strip it and start over. The fact that there was a better choice (my opinion) you might have made on the primer doesn't make the choice you did make "bad". I can't offer you any specific advice because I am not familiar with either the exact primer or the topcoat you mention. I assume that the parts that you have primer on have not been left out in the rain. I think that as long as the topcoat is not incompatible in any way with the primer you used, that the result will be at least as good and very likely will be better than the paint your tractor had when it originally left the factory. You have a lot of work invested already, so I would proceed without backtracking. I do suggest you paint a small separate part as a test, just to make sure there is no obvious problem between the primer and the topcoat. I don't think there willl be, but it's a good practice when using unproven product combinations and if you do notice a problem, you can reassess everything at that time. Usually topcoats are applied fairly soon after primers and I don't know what instructions may be noted on your primer can label. Or your topcoat for that matter. My tendency would be to scuff up the primer a little with a Scotch-Brite hand pad (maroon, general purpose), give it a quick clean with a wax and grease remover (for fingerprints, etc.) and then apply your Case paint.

third party image Rod

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Wes in Ohio

05-18-2006 20:10:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to Rod (NH), 05-16-2006 16:40:27  
thanks for your input everyone I'm gonna try it in a small area first and go from their
Wes



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

05-16-2006 17:08:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to Rod (NH), 05-16-2006 16:40:27  
Rod, I didn't emphasize the painting over it thing because I have run into lifting problems on a couple of new parts that came primed. One was the large coil spring that goes under the seat on some tractors. Scuffed it and used rattle can paint, one of the few times I have done that. It lifted in a couple of hours or less. Sanded it good and applied MTK, lifted again. Removed and primed with epoxy and topcoated with MTK. Problem solved, except that it's hard to paint a coil spring with anything. Seems I did that one other time, also, don't remember what. But, in Wes's case he will probably be ok. I have no idea what kind of primer was on my Chinese spring, but I have learned not to trust new parts that have been primed unless I know the source.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

05-16-2006 18:07:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: Oh no should of looked here first in reply to CNKS, 05-16-2006 17:08:18  
You are correct of course. It would be a disaster to apply the finish color only to watch the whole tractor lift and wrinkle like a prune - hence the test piece, just to make sure. It's also another great reason to go with a two part epoxy primer. I have never heard of anything lifting that stuff. As far as I know, you can apply any common paint chemistry (lacquer, enamel, urethane) from any manufacturer over it at any time after initial dry without having a problem.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy