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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: Primer

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Rod (NH)

05-22-2006 15:03:18




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I'd guess PPG's K-36, or K-93, premium surfacers in the Deltron Line would be the equivalent to the URO, subject to personal preference, of course. I've never used either and don't know how much they cost, but I'm pretty sure they're pricey - probably similar to the URO. They are also mixable as a sealer if you are so inclined. But you have to depart from the tech sheet instructions to apply either direct to bare metal. I am sure you can do it and have it work. But it's definitely not the preferred practice per the manufacturer. You could do the same thing with the 182 for that matter. I don't do it that way because I think epoxy first provides better corrosion protection than you get from any surfacer product, 2K or not. Apparently PPG thinks so also because of the wording in the published tech sheet. The same goes for the URO if you read that sheet - pretreat with 2 coats of an etch primer or use 5717S/5718S (phosphoric acid) chemical treatment. If the Paint School Ex-pro refers to is official DuPont training, then I submit they are not following their own written instructions. Not that it can't be done successfully. I am sure it can be. But you wouldn't know it from the written document and I think it is arguable whether the result is as good by going direct. It would be interesting to see Frank's input on that. There may a newer revised tech sheet that has different instructions but you'd expect it to be on DuPont's website if there was. I don't think you would have a problem at all in putting MTK over the URO. You won't get PPG to bless it but you should have no problem if you choose to go that way. I wouldn't try to tint it with MTK however. That would be a greater risk. Anyway, Ex-pro's the user here. I'm not. I'm just looking at what's in writing from DuPont - and it's not unlike what's in writing from PPG for similar products.

Rod

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EX-pro

05-22-2006 15:23:17




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 Re: Primer in reply to Rod (NH), 05-22-2006 15:03:18  
It was a Dupont factory school in Pomona California from a handout titled "Best practices for URO"

My take on mixing paint systems is this. In painting there are two types of adhesion, chemical and mechanical. Chemical adhesion requires chemically clean surface and all time windows be followed to get good cross-link between layers. Mechanical adhesion is the amount of bite you give via sanding. If you have both kinds of adhesion, you'll have no lifting problems. Most of the time you can get by with one or the other. If you mix systems, you may give up part of the chemical adhesion, but as long as you have good mechanical adhesion you'll probably be OK.

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Rod (NH)

05-22-2006 15:54:36




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 Re: Primer in reply to EX-pro, 05-22-2006 15:23:17  
Agree fully with your take on adhesion. I just found it odd that the school didn't agree with what's in writing from corporate on base metal preparation. Could be the tech sheet on the website is old info. It wouldn't be the first time for something like that to happen.



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