Spraying topcoat around corners and more dummy stu

I think I understand about not worrying about stuff you can't see so much. B Maniac has good explanation. The engines we sell take that to the extreme, if you can't see it, it don't have paint. My B was that way underneath, Allis had similar philosophy.

Also good to know about the paint remover residue. I guess there may be nasty stuff left behind even after it dries up. I normally wash with TSP or such stuff. I quit washing right after paint stripper worked since it seemed to cause serious rusting.

I'm not sure what you mean by "second coat effect". It sounds like you are talking about what happens when fine paint droplets (overspray)from the current coat application land on a surface where the paint is either already dry or so far beyond the flash point that the fine droplets of fresh paint in the overspray do not melt in well, if at all. I don't think you'd have a problem if you paid close attention to flash times between coats and start the next coat shortly after the previous coat has flashed. I'd do the hard to get at areas first and then proceed to complete that coat. After the flash time has passed, repeat that same method in the same sequence on the second coat. Then do the same for a third. You want the paint at the point where you end up on any coat to melt in nicely with the paint where you started on that same coat. You also need to allow a certain amount of time between coats to permit refilling your gun cup or mixing up more paint, if needed. Hopefully you can estimate the quantity to mix such that no mixing will be required between coats. I'll give you a for instance: If the flash time is 5-10 minutes (for OMNI MTK at 70F), then you don't want to take 20 minutes to complete a coat. With that scenario, I'd plan on spending no more than 5 minutes in applying a coat. Between coats is generally not the time to go for a coffee break. You need to get on with the second coat as soon as possible after the flash time has passed for the paint where you started. As B--- indicated, you should choose the correct reducer (and hardener if used) for the temperature at the time. Air temperature and metal temperature should be the same. Using a fast reducer in warm temps is only going to make it more difficult for you, not only with poor flowout but also possibly with poor melt in of overspray at the end of each coat. The OMNI MTK topcoat that CNKS and I use has four different temp reducers and three different temp hardeners available. The correct one to use is selected based on the temperature at the time of spraying. Most automotive paints are similar. I don't know what paint you are using but you should get the appropriate tech sheet from the manufacturer that would provide this specific information. If you cannot complete the area you're painting without greatly exceeding flash times between coats, then you should mask off the area as needed to do it in smaller, separate pieces.

Rod

Rod