Too much paint

Anyhow, I think you are on the right track to get a decent finish. Testing is key on something like this. If you had another junk hood or something to test on I would. You might even consider going to your local auto salvage and getting a hood off of a wreck. If it is not useable, they will sell it to you cheap or might just give it to you.

After you get it, just practice on small parts at a time untill you get the feel for the gun and the paint reduction right. If you run out of room, flip it over.

As a tip, I always test my gun on a piece of masking paper before painting. I hang up a couple strips on the shop wall and use it to set paint volume and fan(those are the two knobs on the back of your gun).

Another thing is that if you start painting and it is not working out for you, stop. It is easier to strip a small section than a whole tractor. Believe me, if it starts out bad it will not get better without some help.

Good Luck!

Tom

In any case.. -MY- gun said to set are between 25 and 45 psi I generall pain around 38 psi to 40 psi.

I mix my paint up per the can, and then go to test painting.. once the paint starts syphoning. I check my pressure gaugge to see that I am in my range while holding a steady spray, and then I adjust my nozzle pattern, and then lastly, air.. Once you adjust air.. you can probably 'leave' it, as long as you are using the same paint you normally use.. and reduce tot he same viscosity.. otherwise you may have to tweak the air a bit each time.

Once you have the spray coming out good.. do some practice if this is your first time. Learn how to go from spray to air for vertain thing.. Make a few mistakes intentionally on your test spray.. see exactly what it takes to get a run on a vertical surface.. or a slump.. etc. Practice with painting a slight run out.. or blowing a slight run out. Find out what overspray does to a previously sprayed surface...

Learn the environment... 0 wind is best.. or if there is some wing.. try to not paint into the wind.. humidity is an issue.. the paint you use and the temp and humidity will all be a factor. Same with your reducer.. etc. Buy compatible materials.. whether the cheap stuff.. or the spendy stuff... And remember.. surface prep is 85% or more of what the eventual outlook will look like.. not the paint.. or the gun.. technique , materials, environment are the rest of the equation..

I'm just a hobby 'hack' painter.. but if you practice.. a 10$ paint gun and small compressor and lots patience and more sanding that you ever wanted to do...will turn out a few parade ready tractors.. and deffinately plenty of workers..

Soundguy

That may be a big contributor to your problem. The correct air pressure at the gun is very important for proper atomization of the paint. Take a look at my way of setting that pressure to see if it helps you out. As others have said, make sure you do some practice painting on something to get things squared away with your gun before spraying your tractor. An old car hood or door works good but even a large piece of cardboard can be beneficial just to check things out.

Rod

Tom
"It ain't broke! It just needs duct tape".

You are never too old and you sure aren't stupid. There is a dizzying array of painting products and methods to use them. For anyone to step beyond a brush and hardware store paint, the confusion can be overwhelming. You'll find all kinds of recommendations from the very simple to the very complex, even some seemingly contradicting advice, depending on what the poster is used to and has had good luck with. For the most part there is no right and wrong way - just different means to a similar end for varying levels of quality and durability - and of course, cost. Start out small, take things a little at a time, follow the manufacturer's written instructions and practice, practice, practice. Sometimes just getting a spray gun to work properly can be a frustrating experience. For those paints that require thinning (reduction) but where no specific ratio is given by the manufacturer, it may be necessary to find out what works by trial and error. Don't be discouraged and don't expect a Mercedes quality level your first time out.

Rod

Well, I got it back to bare metal, oven cleaner spray saved me again for being the best paint remover, and I have the primer on. I am going to do a LOT of testing as you said, and then go at it again. One stubborn old cootI reckon. I will get it right before I croak. LOL

Tom

Tom

You all take care, and thank you again,

Tom
Quitman, TX

On your gun.. Keep a piece of test metal around, and set it out when you paint. Every time I paint i set out a piece od sheet metal and use it to get my air setting on my gun correct, and ballance my reducer to a paint viscosity that will work for my project. Might waste an ounce of paint or two.. but it sure beats sanding down a project and doing it over again..

I paint with a cheapy gun too.. you can get decent results.. most of it depends on your surface prep...

Soundguy

Tom

If you used hardner with your bps paint, it should have a fairly decent luster and gloss to it. Once it is fully cured.. deffinately fully cured.. ..fully fully cured... wax and buff it.. should look good.

I've had quite a few of my tractors at shows... while my 300-400$ paint job doesn't compair with the 800+$ paint jobs some o fthe pro's have.. it sets pretty nicely with the 'bulk' of the rest..

Soundguy

Soundguy

Tom

I don't see why intact paint can't be used as primer. I've painted over intact paint before...

Soundguy

Thanks and take care,

Bald headed idiot
Quitman, TX

That cheapey paint should get you at -least- a few years down the road in the elements.. and if you wax it and keep it under a pole barn.. or lean-too.. or even a tarp shade structure.. Ya might be surprised at how many years you get.

By the way... don't feel too bad about that BPS paint. I've got a NH 7610s built in 2002. It is under cover, and the factory CNH paint on it is faded dull, and worn thru to the primer in areas where my arms contact the fenders.. etc... That's only 4 years and the OEM paint looks worse than my cheap BPS painted tractors.. that have gone for a few more years so far.. and still havn't faded..

Soundguy

Tom

Tom

Keep your paint waxed... it will last many years.

My 8n, the first one I painted is going on 6 years now.. paint hasn't degraded except where it has been gouged .. etc.... just keep waxing and buffing.

I've had no rust thru problems on metal I properly treated. metal that is not prepped good will rust no matter what price you pay for your paint.

I'm not familiar with clear coats.. but keep in mind.. your hardner was a gloss and luster addative..

( The local paint guru will probably know.. but I'm guessing your catylized and cured paint will be a decent base for another paint product... etc.. )

Soundguy